Rabu, 07 November 2007
Clothing and Textile Industry
Texas Agricultural Extension Service • Chester P. Fehlis, Deputy Director • The Texas A&M University System • College Station, Texas
Volume 2, Fall 1999
IN THIS ISSUE
Topics in Clothing & Textile Industry
Children’s Sleepwear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Debate on Federal Industries
Production of Apparel . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Clothing Camp 1999 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Fibers and Fabrics
How Do You Remove Red Dirt Stains
from Clothes? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Generic Term for Cotton? . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Fashion Forecast
Fall/Winter 1999 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Tips and Trends
Laundry Facts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Sorting Secrets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Laundry/asthma Relationship . . . . . . . . . . 5
Hispanic Teen Purchasers . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Using Clothing to Identify Behavior . . . . . . 6
Sharing Program Ideas
Creating Interest in Textiles
and Clothing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Educational Resources
Web Sites and Upcoming Events . . . . . 8
Textile Clothes Line
is published by the
Texas Agricultural Extension Service
Family Development and Resource Management
Route 3, Box 213AA, Lubbock, Texas 79401-9746
phone: 806.746.6101 fax: 806.746.6528
Editor: Dr. Pamela J. Brown
Dr. Pamela J. Brown
Extension Specialist-Consumer Sciences
< p-brown@tamu.edu >
Educational programs serve people of all ages regardless
of socioeconomic level, race, color, sex, religion, disability
or national origin. The Texas A&M University System,
U.S. Department of Agriculture, and the County
Commissioners Courts of Texas Cooperating.
Topics on
Clothing and Textile Industry
Children’s Sleepwear
The Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) has reaffirmed its 1996 vote on the
exemption of snug-fitting and infant size pajamas from children’s sleepwear
flammability requirements. The ‘snug fit’ ruling will take effect June 28, 2000. The law
will require permanent labels and hangtags/garment stickers to advise parents of the
importance of insuring a snug fit for safety purposes. The ruling results from several years
of burn evidence that reveals no cases of a child being burned because he/she was wearing
snug-fitting sleepwear.
Children’s and infants sleepwear tends to burn easily when it is loose fitting or
particularly when worn so that loose parts of a garment can be exposed to flames easily.
Children’s sleepwear, according to CPSC, includes any product of wearing apparel in
sizes (0-14), such as night gowns, pajamas, robes, or similar related items that are
intended to be worn primarily for sleeping or sleep related activities. The CPSC exempts
diapers and underwear, infant garments nine months or younger (because these children
are not as mobile and exposed less to flames), and ‘tight fitting garments’ that meet
specific maximum dimensions. Loungewear must meet children’s sleepwear standards as
well.
Because the sale of tight fitting, non-flame resistant sleepwear is allowed, it is critical that
retail staff and consumers understand the need to buy garments that are properly sized for
a snug fit in children’s sizes larger than 9 months of age. What is a ‘snug fit?’ According
to the CPSC the garment must have contact with the skin at all points. These garments
will look smaller than traditional flame retardant sleepwear. Both sales staff and
consumers need to be aware that flame retardant sleepwear will continue to be available.
Consumers should remember that following the recommended laundry procedures on
flame retardant clothing labels will help preserve the flame retardant
finish.
Questions do arise concerning infant bedding. Bedding is not included
in the CPSC flame retardant guideline. Rather, bedding for infants
should be firm, not soft and fluffy, and sheets and blankets should fit
the mattress snuggly.
Other types of apparel can pose a flammability threat to consumer
safety. These include sheer rayon skirts and scarves, 100% silk
scarves, 100% chenille sweaters, rayon/nylon chenille and
2 Textile Clothes Line, Fall 1999
long hair sweaters, polyester/cotton and 100% cotton
fleece/sherpa garments and, 100% cotton terry robes. Since
1994, there have been 21 recalls of dangerously flammable
clothing in these categories. For more information on
flammability, refer to the Consumer Product Safety
Commission web site:
Source: American Apparel Manufacturers of America Newsletter,
July/August 1999, p. 3.
Consumer Product Safety Commission
, November 25, 1997.
Debate on Federal Prison
Industries Production of Apparel
According to a press release from the American Apparel
Manufacturers Association (AAMA), the Federal Prison
Industries (FPI) is threatening the existence of small apparel
industry producers in the United States. Many of the small
producers, and the average apparel production business in the
U.S. is very small, produce many of the uniforms and
personal issue items for the U.S. armed forces.
At issue is the competition for diminishing Department of
Defense (DOD) dollars and the diversification of FPI product
lines. The latter issue impacts most greatly on DOD supplies
of products such as trousers and kevlar helmets. Adding to
the negative impact on small apparel producers is what is
called “mandatory source privilege” which means that
“federal agencies are required to purchase apparel and other
products produced by FPI regardless of price, quality, or
speed of delivery.” Legislation has been introduced that
would limit FPI’s by allowing it to sell in commercial markets
and phase out the mandatory source privilege. In Texas, the
Texas Correctional Industries produces, among many items,
cloth products, mattresses, mattress covers, clothing, towels,
state and safety flags, draperies and hardware.
Why would the AAMA be concerned with the Federal Prison
Industries system? The AAMA represents over 300 U.S.
companies as their national trade association. These
companies produce 85% of clothing sold at wholesale
(meaning that retail business owners purchase from these
companies, not the end user). The U.S. retail apparel market
is estimated at $180 billion dollars. According to the AAMA,
member companies are located in every state in the U.S. and
manufacture all types of garments.
Source: American Apparel Manufacturers Association,
< http://www.americanapparel.org/NewsR_July27.html >
< http://www.tdcj.state.tx.us/tci/tci-home.htm >
Clothing Camp 1999
4-H clothing camp was held in Dallas, July 22-24, with 94
participants. As a citizenship project, participants provided
Beanie Babies for the children at the Dallas Children’s
Hospital. The children were thrilled to receive them. Quality
of merchandise and comparison shopping was held at Neiman
Marcus and the Dallas Westend. The Dallas Design Initiative,
an organization committed to promoting, fostering and
supporting innovative talent though participation in the
Dallas design industries, gave a two hour presentation. Dallas
designers, models and business owners told their personal
stories of how they started their careers. Displays and a
fashion show of original designs was a camp highlight. Each
of the designers spent an hour after their presentation visiting
with the 4-Hers one on one. One of the designers who
provided clothing for the fashion show has sold her 1999
holiday designs to Neiman Marcus.
Tours included:
Cotton Incorporated – participants
learned about textiles, marketing, trends, new technology for
world markets and research of cotton fibers.
Gerber Garment Technology taught camp members about
computer uses in developing, designing and producing cost
effective samples for presentations and selling to the
customer.
Russell-Newman, Inc. presented an International side of
designing, marketing skills to gain new customers, marketing
products and staying competitive in order to remain in
business.
International Apparel Mart Miss Wade’s Fashion
Merchandising College owner provided information on
earning an associate of arts degree with job placement while
attending school in the fields fashion design, merchandising,
interior design, and computer graphic arts.
World Trade Center running tour was conducted to
familiarize the participants with the market and the John F.
Kennedy memorial.
The costume designer with the Dallas Children’s Theater
provided an hour presentation before for the production of
“The Hobbit” which was attended by the participants. The
designer taught about designing original costumes as well as
recycling garments from a variety of inexpensive sources to
create costumes that are acceptable to the play director as well
as the actors on a very low budget.
Bon Ton’s Upscale Fashion Boutique owner provided a
motivating talk to participants on being proud of yourself and
dressing to enhance your figure type. A tour and shopping of
the boutique concluded the camp for 1999.
Textile Clothes Line, Fall 1999 3
Fibers and Fabrics
“I had a question like that...”
Question:
How do you remove
red dirt stains in clothes?
Double check to be sure that what appears to be red dirt is
not a “rust” stain caused from excessive iron in the
water. If that is the case then DO NOT USE BLEACH.
There are three possible solutions to removing red dirt stains.
Be sure to read them all before suggesting any one method.
1. To remove mud (red clay) from bleachable fabrics: Make
a past of vinegar and table salt. Rub into stain and leave
for at least 30 minutes. Launder using hot water and
bleach. (BE CERTAIN THAT THE STAIN IS NOT
RUST!) Repeat if stain remains.
For non-bleachable fabrics: take to dry cleaners. This
may not be a solution if we’re talking about a load of kids
white socks.
2. If the stain appears to be a rust deposit, then bleach
should not be used at all in the wash. The use of a rust
remover is recommended in this situation. If the water
contains rust, the consumer may want to consider a water
treatment to remove rust from the household water
system.
3. The problem could be soil redisposition. This occurs
when soil removed from one or more articles in the wash
redeposits itself on other articles in the same load. This
causes unknown stains on possibly one or several pieces
of clothing.
Prevention:
Sort clothes carefully. Pretreat heavily soiled clothes and
wash them separately from lightly soiled clothes. Wash knits
and blends (cotton and polyester, for example) separately.
Washers should not be overloaded. Allow room (usually to
the top holes in the washer tub) to provide free circulation
and washing action. Packing the clothes too tightly in the
washer does not allow soil and residue to be rinsed away. Use
extra detergent, particularly in hard water. If the water is
hard, add water softener. Use hot water.
Generic Term for Cotton?
The generic name for cotton is “cotton”....not cellulose.
What is the definition of a generic name? It is the name
of a family of fibers all having similar chemical composition.
We normally think of polyester as a generic name for the
group or family of polyesters that are manufactured.
What is the definition of a trade name? It is the name given to
a fiber that distinguishes it from other fibers of the same
generic family that are made and sold by other producers.
The following is taken from the text “Textiles” by Kadolph,
Langford, Hollen, and Sandler, a reliable textile science text
used throughout the U.S. in textile science college level
courses.
Cellulosic fibers refer to the fiber bundles of plants that give
strength and pliability to their leaves, stems, and roots.
Cellulose is the source from which the fibers discussed in the
next paragraph come. Natural cellulosic textile fibers are
classified according to the portion of the plant from which
they are removed. These fibers are obtained from plants that
can be economically and easily separated from the rest of the
plant (i.e., cotton, jute, sisal).
Natural cellulosic fibers fall into three groups:
• Seed fibers – include cotton, kapok and coir
• Bast Fibers – include flax, ramie, hemp, jute, kenaf
• Leaf fibers – include pina, abaca, sisal and heneguen
Not all of these fibers are produced and available in the U.S.
Cotton, as well as flax, silk, and wool, are referred to as
“natural fibers” because they come from naturally occurring
plants, animals or insects (silk from silk worm larvae).
To say that cellulose is the generic term for
cotton is incorrect because it would also
have to be the generic term for all of
the cellulosic fibers listed above.
Thus, the fiber name and generic
name are one and the same for
cotton. Sometimes cotton is further
described with terms like Pima,
Supima, Sea Island, Egyptian, etc., but
those describe the variety of cotton (long staple)
and are not considered tradenames.
4 Textile Clothes Line, Fall 1999
Think about textile labels: An item made of cotton would not
list cellulose as the generic name because it would not
indicate which of the cellulosic fibers it describes.
The confusion seems to occur because manufactured fibers
are assigned both a generic name and a trade name. For
example, Acetate, Triacetate, and Rayon are manufactured
fibers produced from cellulosic derivatives. Yet as the list of
manufactured fibers has increased so has the list of trade
names.
Fashion Forecast
Fall/Winter 1999
Women’s Fashions
The two most exciting new developments in women’s
fashion involve fabrics and color. And while the color
changes are obvious, the fabric innovations are far more
subtle. Teflon-coated knits and wovens have an invisible
shield to protect them from spills and stains. It may cut down
on trips to the dry cleaners but it doesn’t change the
appearance, weight, touch or breathability of the fabric. Other
fabrics are disguised to the point that the fiber content label is
the only clue to their true origins. Fabrics are felted, padded,
waxed, laminated, fused, coated and bonded to look nothing
like their usual selves. Hand-felted silks look like blankets,
washed wools look like flannels and polar fleece looks like
shearling. At least one designer introduced “living rubber”
garments that change colors with body heat.
Shots of color play against the seasonless neutrals: black,
gray, beige and camel. Silver, red, pale green, purple, fuschia,
orange and chrome yellow are showing up in shawls, ponchos
and serapes, in shaped turtleneck sweaters, in short coats and
in edgings.
Men’s Fashions
As men’s fashion moves into the 21st century, it blends
form with function and technology with earthy elements,
says The Soap and Detergent Association. Bonded, doublefaced
fabrics, laser-cut leathers, hardware on apparel, dress
slacks in 100-plus worsteds, stretch blends with Lycra
spandex and topcoat-style raincoats with Velcro closures are
some of the season’s most exciting looks.
The hottest trend in jeans is dirty denim – worn and dusty,
right off of the construction site. Those that aren’t completely
down and dirty are treated to a vintage-looking wash or are
subject to seam abrasions, fabric abrasion or actually
shredded and torn.
One the suit scene, it’s a navy and gray world, as it has been
for several seasons. To counteract this sameness of color, the
silhouette is subtly changing: slimmer lines, narrower
shoulder width, slightly longer coats, higher side vents, raised
button-stance, narrower lapels and trimmer trousers with
single pleats or not pleats.
Casual ties are made from softer fabrics, including knits, and
are more narrow. Interesting fabric blends of silk/wool,
improve the hand of ties as well as provide subtle texture.
Neckwear designed to benefit worthy causes, i.e. Save the
Children, is a growing trend.
Children’s Fashions
Back-to-school fashions take a uniform approach. An
increasing number of public, as well as private schools,
are instituting a uniform dress policy. Public school versions
sometimes have subtle stylist upgrades, such as changes in
collar styles, sweaters instead of blazers or color variations.
But the goal is the same: everyone similarly dressed in
nondescript clothes, such as khaki pants, polo shirts, simple
jumpers and skirts. School uniforms may not be big fashion,
but in the kids’ apparel market, they are becoming big
business, observes The Soap and Detergent Association.
Other trends to watch in children’s wear include ultra-dark
indigo denim jeans with cuffed bottoms, A-line skirts topped
with easy twin sets, cargo pants with contrast topstitching,
jersey tops, flannel shirts in softer plaids and slim corduroy
jackets. Watch for glimmer and sparkle in small accents or as
a full-force glamour attack.
Source: Cleanliness Facts, The Soap and Detergent Association, July/August
1999.
Teens and Fashion
Teens are fashion conscious. They are responsible for $40
billion in apparel sales this past year. Labeled as
Generation Y, ages 4-21, they are the children of Baby
Boomers. Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor TM shows
that 63 percent of young women ages 16 to 19 agree that it
was very important to have an up-to-date wardrobe. This
figure is 20 percent higher than all women surveyed who
agreed with the statement. Sixty-two percent of the teenage
girls stated that they are more likely to buy separate pieces
from different stores than to buy an entire outfit at one store,
whereas half of the older women surveyed would prefer to buy
the ensemble.
Textile Clothes Line, Fall 1999 5
Internet technology is expanding teens’ sources of fashion
influence. Retailers are quickly tapping into the teen market
providing easy to reach information on fashion trends. Fewer
fashion rules characterize the teen market. Teens are making
their own clothing choices at an earlier age (13-15). By
16-18, three-fourths are not using any parental guidance on
clothing choices.
Source Cotton, Inc. October 1999,
Developing Careers in CAD -
Computer Aided Design
Computer Aided Design (CAD) is a career option for those
aspiring designers, but not only in fashion. Add to the
design realm CAD in home interiors, furnishings, textile
manufacturing, or free lance consulting. In a 1998 survey of
CAD workers, starting salaries ranged from $18,000-
$37,000. The average length of stay in a CAD position was
1-3 years. Eighty-two percent of CAD workers were women.
Salaries for various positions in CAD included:
designer/stylist = $39,000; Senior designers = $58,811.
Salaries increased significantly after 10-15 years in a
position. CAD education is available through technical
colleges, 2 year colleges and 4 year institutions.
T i p s a n d T r e n d s
Who’s doing the laundry?
Not surprisingly, households with children use
more laundry detergent, and especially
heavy duty detergent. Singles, on the other hand,
buy less laundry detergent. Because they tend to
be apartment dwellers, singles wash their clothes
at laundromats and purchase ‘single-use’ detergent packages.
Fast growing businesses are laundry detergent dispensers and
wash/dry/fold/deliver services.
Source: American Demographics, July 1996, p 8.
Sorting Secrets
First, sort by color. Wash all whites separately; pastels and
medium colors together; brights and darks by themselves.
Pay special attention to white and lightly colored synthetics,
as they readily pick up dark dyes from other fabrics during
washing.
Sort out those heavily soiled items from lightly soiled once,
since lightly soiled items can pick up the extra soil from the
wash water. Whites will slowly get
grayer or yellower; colors will
become duller and duller.
Source: Cleanliness Facts, The Soap
and Detergent Association, July/August
1999.
Laundry Facts
Consumers wash over 660,000 wash loads every week, and
women do 88% of these loads. Generally speaking, the
life expectancy of washable apparel is 50 washings. The
actual life of these garments can be anywhere from less than a
year to several years depending on the frequency of washing.
Underwear and socks that get washed regularly, may last less
than a year. Garments worn only for special occasions or
seasonally may last for several years.
Colored items are the most frequent type of wash load (36%
of all loads). Whites and mixed color loads are next (18%
each). The consumer demand for all- or mostly cotton
garments is rising. Thus, the driver for increased wash loads
is colored, cotton apparel.
Source: Cleanliness Facts, The Soap and Detergent Association, July/August
1999.
Laundry/asthma relationship
The Soap and Detergent Association recommends a wash
temperature of 140° F for 10 minutes to effectively kill
dust mites. This contradicts the usual washing temperature of
the average consumer (88° F in 1994). To counteract cooler
washing habits, SDA now recommends washing bedding at
least weekly in warm water. This will remove the allergens,
according to SDA. Drying bedding in the dryer will kill dust
mites if the dryer is set at a normal temperature and the
bedding is allowed to dry for 10 minutes. For more
information go to.
Source: Cleanliness Facts, July/Aug. 1999, Tips and Trends from the Soap and
Detergent Association.
6 Textile Clothes Line, Fall 1999
Hispanic teen purchasers
American Demographics (May 1999) reports that fashion
and beauty publications are targeting Hispanic teens.
Why? On average, Hispanic teens spend $375/month, 7.8%
more than the average teen. “Girls spend 60% more on
makeup than other female teens, 50% more on acne products
and more than twice as much on
hair products.” (p.37). What is
the Hispanic teen girl more
likely to buy? Items include
casual shoes, athletic wear,
designer jeans, pantyhose, hair
gel, mousse, and hair spray.
Three teen publications are
now marketing to Hispanic
teens: Latingirl, SuperOnda, and Latina. Over $140 billion
dollars were spent by teens in the U.S. in 1998, with Hispanic
teens contributing 14% of the total or $20 billion. That
percentage is estimated to increase to 17% by 2005.
Source: “Los Ninos go shopping,” American Demographics, May,
1999, p. 37-39.
Using clothing to identify behavior
Clothing is thought to be one sign of gang membership.
However, one of the pitfalls of using clothing as the
single source of identification of any group is stereotyping.
Researchers at the University of California - Davis have been
studying gang identification for over ten years. Our
appearance is one key way that we as human beings have of
making sense of the visual world. Clothing provides ‘cues’ to
those around us of what a person might be like, or might
behave. We often assume that a person dressed in a suit is a
professional or that a woman dressed very suggestively is
setting herself up for rape. However, our judgements can be
wrong, resulting in barriers in communication between
observers and wearers. Youth have been known for years to
try out new looks and fashions with their desire to find an
identity. Gang membership, research shows, should be
focused on behavior of individuals rather than strictly
appearance.
The situation in which clothing is seen is referred to as
context. Context can be defined in terms of time, space, or
experience. Why would context be important in determining
a youth’s membership in gangs? First, clothing worn in one
time period or another can take on different meanings.
Currently, the term ‘retro’ refers to clothing worn in earlier
generations. Individuals without any ‘time’ reference to
earlier fashions might not associate the same meaning with
clothing worn in an earlier time. Baby boomers may see long
hair differently than the current young generation. They do
not have the same time context.
Space can be what directly surrounds the viewer and as a
geographic location. An item of clothing on a rack in a store
is out of context, it has no meaning. However, when worn in
a particular setting with other apparel, it takes on a different
meaning. A bandana can be a scarf, a rag, or a flag of
identification. The type of apparel and how clothing is worn
varies from one location in the country/world to another.
Gang identity in one city may not be the same identifier in
another location.
Experience is another form of context. The experiences that
the viewer brings to the observation of clothing is very
important. Because each of our living experiences are
different, we do not necessarily make the same
interpretations. And as exposure to unique appearances
becomes more frequent, our individual reactions become less
strong.
Clothing is a strong communicator of roles and expectations
associated with behavior. The more we learn about clothing
behavior, the less often incorrect stereotypical judgments will
be made. The context in which clothing is observed should be
considered along with the behaviors of the individuals before
judgement is made.
Source:
Sharing program
ideas –
Creating interest in
textiles and clothing
Several agents have called over the past few months
requesting ideas for programs on the benefits of learning
to sew. Here’s what was shared with them. Send Pam Brown
an e-mail, < p-brown@tamu.edu >, if you have other ideas.
“Sewing is creative”
According to a study commissioned by the Home Sewing
Association (HSA), children who sewed simple projects
demonstrated elevated creativity, problem solving and
perseverance afterwards as compared to kids who watched
TV or played a video game.
Sewing uses a multitude of creative choices: colors, fabrics,
designs, techniques, and proportions. When compared to
Textile Clothes Line, Fall 1999 7
more passive activities like watching TV, sewing activities
can develop skills for a lifetime.
Sewing also helps kids:
• develop problem solving skills.
• experience a sense of accomplishment when a
project is completed.
• understand concepts of color, textiles, construction,
fit.
• learn to use and care for tools and equipment.
• develop and improve fine motor skills such as
eye/hand coordination.
• develop individual and team work skills.
• develop expressiveness.
The optimum time for learning and creativity is by ages 10
or 12.
Sewing also reduces STRESS. The activity has been shown to
promote relaxation and therefore reducing blood pressure,
heart rate, and perspiration rate in comparison to other
leisurely activities like card playing, painting, reading, or
playing a video game. Usually sewing is thought of as an
expression of creativity, yet even novice sewers experience
relaxation. Every BODY can benefit from rest from the hectic
lifestyles people are living today. Sewing helps the individual
to focus on something productive and positive, rather than
worries. Over 32% of respondents in an HSA survey indicated
that sewing is ‘relaxing.’
The top ten reasons people sew are:
1. Sense of accomplishment. 7. Pure enjoyment.
2. It’s relaxing. 8. Can be shared.
3. Saves money. 9. Means of self-
4. It’s a creative outlet. expression.
5. Impress people. 10. Way to make friends.
6. Satisfying to wear.
People often use these excuses for not sewing:
No time – what are they doing with their time? Is it a matter
of getting organized?
No money – sewing saves money, demonstrate the savings,
particularly with clothing repairs.
No space – start a sewing cooperative in a church,
community building, etc.
No fabric stores – sewing is experiencing a resurgence,
particularly sewing for the home. Fabric stores are located in
major discount stores, over the WWW, or through catalogs.
Check sewing magazines, i.e., Threads or Sew News for
sources.
No skill – recruit a volunteer to become a Master Clothing
Volunteer (MCV) to teach sewing skills or contact a nearby
chapter of the American Sewing Guild.
No projects – go to the Home Sewing Association Web site
for sources of inexpensive and simple sewing projects,
< http://www.sewing.org/ >. Or refer to the 4-H clothing
leader guide for project ideas. These offer age specific project
ideas and activities, lesson outlines, and specific information
on a variety of apparel and textile topics – ALL appropriate
for creating, making, and caring for family clothing.
Build a sewing business by developing or
improving skills that can become a business or land
a job. There is increasing demand for skilled labor in the
apparel industry. The jobs that have ‘gone overseas’ are
primarily unskilled, lower paying jobs in the apparel industry.
Growing in demand are custom clothiers, individuals who
sew for the ‘non-sewing’ public. As the number of women in
the workforce increases, the demand for custom sewing
increases. This is partially due to the price of career apparel,
desire for uniqueness and good fit, as well as interest in home
interior furnishings.
Looking for a sewing professional?
Talk to a local fabric store or sewing machine dealer. Check
with friends and acquaintances to get their recommendations.
Ask for contacts at the local dry cleaners. Contact
professional sewing organizations, such as the Professional
Association of Custom Clothiers. Check the yellow pages,
newspapers and store bulletin boards.
What to look for in a sewing professional?
Trust – this person will know everything about you. You
have to be totally at ease with the individual. Arrange a faceto-
face meeting. Be certain she understands your ‘vision’ for
the garment you want and is willing to accept criticism or
questions. Get detailed information on the quality of
workmanship, get references, examine actual samples of
finished garments. Ask about their training, particularly
specialized training. Discuss fees, hours of business, know
your own budget, expect to pay a deposit of 50% of the final
cost and sign a contract. Remember, a sewing professional is
a business person.
Source: American Home
Sewing Association,
< http://www.sewing.org/ >.
Educational Resources, Web Sites and Upcoming Events
Master Clothing Volunteer Training
March 28 - 31, 2000
Registration will be $55.00 plus hotel and transportation.
Reservations can be made with the Sumner Suites in
San Antonio (800-747-8483). Registration forms will be
available by January 15, 2000.
Sources of fashion information
This site contains some great sources for information on
fashion industry designers, top apparel sources, and design
information for 4-Hers, leaders, and master clothing
volunteers interested in the 4-H design project. Go to
then click on “teaching
workshops” to find the two sites: “Art, Design, and Visual
Thinking” and “The On-line Visual Literacy Project.”
Educational Packet
Clothes Do The Talking: Work And What To Wear
Topics to be addressed: understanding what clothing
communicates to those around us in work, school and social
environments. A set of videos has been ordered from Buffalo
State University in New York that addresses interviewing and
work dress for the welfare to work audience. These will be
available from the Resource Library to support this
educational packet and the BSSF Curriculum, Job Skills
section.
The American Apparel Manufacturers Association is another
source for clothing care information.
< http://www.americanapparel.org/
AAMA_Consum_Info.html >
TEXAS AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE
U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE
THE TEXAS A&M UNIVERSITY SYSTEM
COLLEGE STATION, TEXAS 77843
OFFICIAL BUSINESS
Penalty For Private Use, $300
Volume 2, Fall 1999
IN THIS ISSUE
Topics in Clothing & Textile Industry
Children’s Sleepwear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Debate on Federal Industries
Production of Apparel . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Clothing Camp 1999 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Fibers and Fabrics
How Do You Remove Red Dirt Stains
from Clothes? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Generic Term for Cotton? . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Fashion Forecast
Fall/Winter 1999 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Tips and Trends
Laundry Facts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Sorting Secrets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Laundry/asthma Relationship . . . . . . . . . . 5
Hispanic Teen Purchasers . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Using Clothing to Identify Behavior . . . . . . 6
Sharing Program Ideas
Creating Interest in Textiles
and Clothing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Educational Resources
Web Sites and Upcoming Events . . . . . 8
Textile Clothes Line
is published by the
Texas Agricultural Extension Service
Family Development and Resource Management
Route 3, Box 213AA, Lubbock, Texas 79401-9746
phone: 806.746.6101 fax: 806.746.6528
Editor: Dr. Pamela J. Brown
Dr. Pamela J. Brown
Extension Specialist-Consumer Sciences
< p-brown@tamu.edu >
Educational programs serve people of all ages regardless
of socioeconomic level, race, color, sex, religion, disability
or national origin. The Texas A&M University System,
U.S. Department of Agriculture, and the County
Commissioners Courts of Texas Cooperating.
Topics on
Clothing and Textile Industry
Children’s Sleepwear
The Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) has reaffirmed its 1996 vote on the
exemption of snug-fitting and infant size pajamas from children’s sleepwear
flammability requirements. The ‘snug fit’ ruling will take effect June 28, 2000. The law
will require permanent labels and hangtags/garment stickers to advise parents of the
importance of insuring a snug fit for safety purposes. The ruling results from several years
of burn evidence that reveals no cases of a child being burned because he/she was wearing
snug-fitting sleepwear.
Children’s and infants sleepwear tends to burn easily when it is loose fitting or
particularly when worn so that loose parts of a garment can be exposed to flames easily.
Children’s sleepwear, according to CPSC, includes any product of wearing apparel in
sizes (0-14), such as night gowns, pajamas, robes, or similar related items that are
intended to be worn primarily for sleeping or sleep related activities. The CPSC exempts
diapers and underwear, infant garments nine months or younger (because these children
are not as mobile and exposed less to flames), and ‘tight fitting garments’ that meet
specific maximum dimensions. Loungewear must meet children’s sleepwear standards as
well.
Because the sale of tight fitting, non-flame resistant sleepwear is allowed, it is critical that
retail staff and consumers understand the need to buy garments that are properly sized for
a snug fit in children’s sizes larger than 9 months of age. What is a ‘snug fit?’ According
to the CPSC the garment must have contact with the skin at all points. These garments
will look smaller than traditional flame retardant sleepwear. Both sales staff and
consumers need to be aware that flame retardant sleepwear will continue to be available.
Consumers should remember that following the recommended laundry procedures on
flame retardant clothing labels will help preserve the flame retardant
finish.
Questions do arise concerning infant bedding. Bedding is not included
in the CPSC flame retardant guideline. Rather, bedding for infants
should be firm, not soft and fluffy, and sheets and blankets should fit
the mattress snuggly.
Other types of apparel can pose a flammability threat to consumer
safety. These include sheer rayon skirts and scarves, 100% silk
scarves, 100% chenille sweaters, rayon/nylon chenille and
2 Textile Clothes Line, Fall 1999
long hair sweaters, polyester/cotton and 100% cotton
fleece/sherpa garments and, 100% cotton terry robes. Since
1994, there have been 21 recalls of dangerously flammable
clothing in these categories. For more information on
flammability, refer to the Consumer Product Safety
Commission web site:
Source: American Apparel Manufacturers of America Newsletter,
July/August 1999, p. 3.
Consumer Product Safety Commission
Debate on Federal Prison
Industries Production of Apparel
According to a press release from the American Apparel
Manufacturers Association (AAMA), the Federal Prison
Industries (FPI) is threatening the existence of small apparel
industry producers in the United States. Many of the small
producers, and the average apparel production business in the
U.S. is very small, produce many of the uniforms and
personal issue items for the U.S. armed forces.
At issue is the competition for diminishing Department of
Defense (DOD) dollars and the diversification of FPI product
lines. The latter issue impacts most greatly on DOD supplies
of products such as trousers and kevlar helmets. Adding to
the negative impact on small apparel producers is what is
called “mandatory source privilege” which means that
“federal agencies are required to purchase apparel and other
products produced by FPI regardless of price, quality, or
speed of delivery.” Legislation has been introduced that
would limit FPI’s by allowing it to sell in commercial markets
and phase out the mandatory source privilege. In Texas, the
Texas Correctional Industries produces, among many items,
cloth products, mattresses, mattress covers, clothing, towels,
state and safety flags, draperies and hardware.
Why would the AAMA be concerned with the Federal Prison
Industries system? The AAMA represents over 300 U.S.
companies as their national trade association. These
companies produce 85% of clothing sold at wholesale
(meaning that retail business owners purchase from these
companies, not the end user). The U.S. retail apparel market
is estimated at $180 billion dollars. According to the AAMA,
member companies are located in every state in the U.S. and
manufacture all types of garments.
Source: American Apparel Manufacturers Association,
< http://www.americanapparel.org/NewsR_July27.html >
< http://www.tdcj.state.tx.us/tci/tci-home.htm >
Clothing Camp 1999
4-H clothing camp was held in Dallas, July 22-24, with 94
participants. As a citizenship project, participants provided
Beanie Babies for the children at the Dallas Children’s
Hospital. The children were thrilled to receive them. Quality
of merchandise and comparison shopping was held at Neiman
Marcus and the Dallas Westend. The Dallas Design Initiative,
an organization committed to promoting, fostering and
supporting innovative talent though participation in the
Dallas design industries, gave a two hour presentation. Dallas
designers, models and business owners told their personal
stories of how they started their careers. Displays and a
fashion show of original designs was a camp highlight. Each
of the designers spent an hour after their presentation visiting
with the 4-Hers one on one. One of the designers who
provided clothing for the fashion show has sold her 1999
holiday designs to Neiman Marcus.
Tours included:
Cotton Incorporated
learned about textiles, marketing, trends, new technology for
world markets and research of cotton fibers.
Gerber Garment Technology taught camp members about
computer uses in developing, designing and producing cost
effective samples for presentations and selling to the
customer.
Russell-Newman, Inc. presented an International side of
designing, marketing skills to gain new customers, marketing
products and staying competitive in order to remain in
business.
International Apparel Mart Miss Wade’s Fashion
Merchandising College owner provided information on
earning an associate of arts degree with job placement while
attending school in the fields fashion design, merchandising,
interior design, and computer graphic arts.
World Trade Center running tour was conducted to
familiarize the participants with the market and the John F.
Kennedy memorial.
The costume designer with the Dallas Children’s Theater
provided an hour presentation before for the production of
“The Hobbit” which was attended by the participants. The
designer taught about designing original costumes as well as
recycling garments from a variety of inexpensive sources to
create costumes that are acceptable to the play director as well
as the actors on a very low budget.
Bon Ton’s Upscale Fashion Boutique owner provided a
motivating talk to participants on being proud of yourself and
dressing to enhance your figure type. A tour and shopping of
the boutique concluded the camp for 1999.
Textile Clothes Line, Fall 1999 3
Fibers and Fabrics
“I had a question like that...”
Question:
How do you remove
red dirt stains in clothes?
Double check to be sure that what appears to be red dirt is
not a “rust” stain caused from excessive iron in the
water. If that is the case then DO NOT USE BLEACH.
There are three possible solutions to removing red dirt stains.
Be sure to read them all before suggesting any one method.
1. To remove mud (red clay) from bleachable fabrics: Make
a past of vinegar and table salt. Rub into stain and leave
for at least 30 minutes. Launder using hot water and
bleach. (BE CERTAIN THAT THE STAIN IS NOT
RUST!) Repeat if stain remains.
For non-bleachable fabrics: take to dry cleaners. This
may not be a solution if we’re talking about a load of kids
white socks.
2. If the stain appears to be a rust deposit, then bleach
should not be used at all in the wash. The use of a rust
remover is recommended in this situation. If the water
contains rust, the consumer may want to consider a water
treatment to remove rust from the household water
system.
3. The problem could be soil redisposition. This occurs
when soil removed from one or more articles in the wash
redeposits itself on other articles in the same load. This
causes unknown stains on possibly one or several pieces
of clothing.
Prevention:
Sort clothes carefully. Pretreat heavily soiled clothes and
wash them separately from lightly soiled clothes. Wash knits
and blends (cotton and polyester, for example) separately.
Washers should not be overloaded. Allow room (usually to
the top holes in the washer tub) to provide free circulation
and washing action. Packing the clothes too tightly in the
washer does not allow soil and residue to be rinsed away. Use
extra detergent, particularly in hard water. If the water is
hard, add water softener. Use hot water.
Generic Term for Cotton?
The generic name for cotton is “cotton”....not cellulose.
What is the definition of a generic name? It is the name
of a family of fibers all having similar chemical composition.
We normally think of polyester as a generic name for the
group or family of polyesters that are manufactured.
What is the definition of a trade name? It is the name given to
a fiber that distinguishes it from other fibers of the same
generic family that are made and sold by other producers.
The following is taken from the text “Textiles” by Kadolph,
Langford, Hollen, and Sandler, a reliable textile science text
used throughout the U.S. in textile science college level
courses.
Cellulosic fibers refer to the fiber bundles of plants that give
strength and pliability to their leaves, stems, and roots.
Cellulose is the source from which the fibers discussed in the
next paragraph come. Natural cellulosic textile fibers are
classified according to the portion of the plant from which
they are removed. These fibers are obtained from plants that
can be economically and easily separated from the rest of the
plant (i.e., cotton, jute, sisal).
Natural cellulosic fibers fall into three groups:
• Seed fibers – include cotton, kapok and coir
• Bast Fibers – include flax, ramie, hemp, jute, kenaf
• Leaf fibers – include pina, abaca, sisal and heneguen
Not all of these fibers are produced and available in the U.S.
Cotton, as well as flax, silk, and wool, are referred to as
“natural fibers” because they come from naturally occurring
plants, animals or insects (silk from silk worm larvae).
To say that cellulose is the generic term for
cotton is incorrect because it would also
have to be the generic term for all of
the cellulosic fibers listed above.
Thus, the fiber name and generic
name are one and the same for
cotton. Sometimes cotton is further
described with terms like Pima,
Supima, Sea Island, Egyptian, etc., but
those describe the variety of cotton (long staple)
and are not considered tradenames.
4 Textile Clothes Line, Fall 1999
Think about textile labels: An item made of cotton would not
list cellulose as the generic name because it would not
indicate which of the cellulosic fibers it describes.
The confusion seems to occur because manufactured fibers
are assigned both a generic name and a trade name. For
example, Acetate, Triacetate, and Rayon are manufactured
fibers produced from cellulosic derivatives. Yet as the list of
manufactured fibers has increased so has the list of trade
names.
Fashion Forecast
Fall/Winter 1999
Women’s Fashions
The two most exciting new developments in women’s
fashion involve fabrics and color. And while the color
changes are obvious, the fabric innovations are far more
subtle. Teflon-coated knits and wovens have an invisible
shield to protect them from spills and stains. It may cut down
on trips to the dry cleaners but it doesn’t change the
appearance, weight, touch or breathability of the fabric. Other
fabrics are disguised to the point that the fiber content label is
the only clue to their true origins. Fabrics are felted, padded,
waxed, laminated, fused, coated and bonded to look nothing
like their usual selves. Hand-felted silks look like blankets,
washed wools look like flannels and polar fleece looks like
shearling. At least one designer introduced “living rubber”
garments that change colors with body heat.
Shots of color play against the seasonless neutrals: black,
gray, beige and camel. Silver, red, pale green, purple, fuschia,
orange and chrome yellow are showing up in shawls, ponchos
and serapes, in shaped turtleneck sweaters, in short coats and
in edgings.
Men’s Fashions
As men’s fashion moves into the 21st century, it blends
form with function and technology with earthy elements,
says The Soap and Detergent Association. Bonded, doublefaced
fabrics, laser-cut leathers, hardware on apparel, dress
slacks in 100-plus worsteds, stretch blends with Lycra
spandex and topcoat-style raincoats with Velcro closures are
some of the season’s most exciting looks.
The hottest trend in jeans is dirty denim – worn and dusty,
right off of the construction site. Those that aren’t completely
down and dirty are treated to a vintage-looking wash or are
subject to seam abrasions, fabric abrasion or actually
shredded and torn.
One the suit scene, it’s a navy and gray world, as it has been
for several seasons. To counteract this sameness of color, the
silhouette is subtly changing: slimmer lines, narrower
shoulder width, slightly longer coats, higher side vents, raised
button-stance, narrower lapels and trimmer trousers with
single pleats or not pleats.
Casual ties are made from softer fabrics, including knits, and
are more narrow. Interesting fabric blends of silk/wool,
improve the hand of ties as well as provide subtle texture.
Neckwear designed to benefit worthy causes, i.e. Save the
Children, is a growing trend.
Children’s Fashions
Back-to-school fashions take a uniform approach. An
increasing number of public, as well as private schools,
are instituting a uniform dress policy. Public school versions
sometimes have subtle stylist upgrades, such as changes in
collar styles, sweaters instead of blazers or color variations.
But the goal is the same: everyone similarly dressed in
nondescript clothes, such as khaki pants, polo shirts, simple
jumpers and skirts. School uniforms may not be big fashion,
but in the kids’ apparel market, they are becoming big
business, observes The Soap and Detergent Association.
Other trends to watch in children’s wear include ultra-dark
indigo denim jeans with cuffed bottoms, A-line skirts topped
with easy twin sets, cargo pants with contrast topstitching,
jersey tops, flannel shirts in softer plaids and slim corduroy
jackets. Watch for glimmer and sparkle in small accents or as
a full-force glamour attack.
Source: Cleanliness Facts, The Soap and Detergent Association, July/August
1999.
Teens and Fashion
Teens are fashion conscious. They are responsible for $40
billion in apparel sales this past year. Labeled as
Generation Y, ages 4-21, they are the children of Baby
Boomers. Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor TM shows
that 63 percent of young women ages 16 to 19 agree that it
was very important to have an up-to-date wardrobe. This
figure is 20 percent higher than all women surveyed who
agreed with the statement. Sixty-two percent of the teenage
girls stated that they are more likely to buy separate pieces
from different stores than to buy an entire outfit at one store,
whereas half of the older women surveyed would prefer to buy
the ensemble.
Textile Clothes Line, Fall 1999 5
Internet technology is expanding teens’ sources of fashion
influence. Retailers are quickly tapping into the teen market
providing easy to reach information on fashion trends. Fewer
fashion rules characterize the teen market. Teens are making
their own clothing choices at an earlier age (13-15). By
16-18, three-fourths are not using any parental guidance on
clothing choices.
Source Cotton, Inc. October 1999,
Developing Careers in CAD -
Computer Aided Design
Computer Aided Design (CAD) is a career option for those
aspiring designers, but not only in fashion. Add to the
design realm CAD in home interiors, furnishings, textile
manufacturing, or free lance consulting. In a 1998 survey of
CAD workers, starting salaries ranged from $18,000-
$37,000. The average length of stay in a CAD position was
1-3 years. Eighty-two percent of CAD workers were women.
Salaries for various positions in CAD included:
designer/stylist = $39,000; Senior designers = $58,811.
Salaries increased significantly after 10-15 years in a
position. CAD education is available through technical
colleges, 2 year colleges and 4 year institutions.
T i p s a n d T r e n d s
Who’s doing the laundry?
Not surprisingly, households with children use
more laundry detergent, and especially
heavy duty detergent. Singles, on the other hand,
buy less laundry detergent. Because they tend to
be apartment dwellers, singles wash their clothes
at laundromats and purchase ‘single-use’ detergent packages.
Fast growing businesses are laundry detergent dispensers and
wash/dry/fold/deliver services.
Source: American Demographics, July 1996, p 8.
Sorting Secrets
First, sort by color. Wash all whites separately; pastels and
medium colors together; brights and darks by themselves.
Pay special attention to white and lightly colored synthetics,
as they readily pick up dark dyes from other fabrics during
washing.
Sort out those heavily soiled items from lightly soiled once,
since lightly soiled items can pick up the extra soil from the
wash water. Whites will slowly get
grayer or yellower; colors will
become duller and duller.
Source: Cleanliness Facts, The Soap
and Detergent Association, July/August
1999.
Laundry Facts
Consumers wash over 660,000 wash loads every week, and
women do 88% of these loads. Generally speaking, the
life expectancy of washable apparel is 50 washings. The
actual life of these garments can be anywhere from less than a
year to several years depending on the frequency of washing.
Underwear and socks that get washed regularly, may last less
than a year. Garments worn only for special occasions or
seasonally may last for several years.
Colored items are the most frequent type of wash load (36%
of all loads). Whites and mixed color loads are next (18%
each). The consumer demand for all- or mostly cotton
garments is rising. Thus, the driver for increased wash loads
is colored, cotton apparel.
Source: Cleanliness Facts, The Soap and Detergent Association, July/August
1999.
Laundry/asthma relationship
The Soap and Detergent Association recommends a wash
temperature of 140° F for 10 minutes to effectively kill
dust mites. This contradicts the usual washing temperature of
the average consumer (88° F in 1994). To counteract cooler
washing habits, SDA now recommends washing bedding at
least weekly in warm water. This will remove the allergens,
according to SDA. Drying bedding in the dryer will kill dust
mites if the dryer is set at a normal temperature and the
bedding is allowed to dry for 10 minutes. For more
information go to
Source: Cleanliness Facts, July/Aug. 1999, Tips and Trends from the Soap and
Detergent Association.
6 Textile Clothes Line, Fall 1999
Hispanic teen purchasers
American Demographics (May 1999) reports that fashion
and beauty publications are targeting Hispanic teens.
Why? On average, Hispanic teens spend $375/month, 7.8%
more than the average teen. “Girls spend 60% more on
makeup than other female teens, 50% more on acne products
and more than twice as much on
hair products.” (p.37). What is
the Hispanic teen girl more
likely to buy? Items include
casual shoes, athletic wear,
designer jeans, pantyhose, hair
gel, mousse, and hair spray.
Three teen publications are
now marketing to Hispanic
teens: Latingirl, SuperOnda, and Latina. Over $140 billion
dollars were spent by teens in the U.S. in 1998, with Hispanic
teens contributing 14% of the total or $20 billion. That
percentage is estimated to increase to 17% by 2005.
Source: “Los Ninos go shopping,” American Demographics, May,
1999, p. 37-39.
Using clothing to identify behavior
Clothing is thought to be one sign of gang membership.
However, one of the pitfalls of using clothing as the
single source of identification of any group is stereotyping.
Researchers at the University of California - Davis have been
studying gang identification for over ten years. Our
appearance is one key way that we as human beings have of
making sense of the visual world. Clothing provides ‘cues’ to
those around us of what a person might be like, or might
behave. We often assume that a person dressed in a suit is a
professional or that a woman dressed very suggestively is
setting herself up for rape. However, our judgements can be
wrong, resulting in barriers in communication between
observers and wearers. Youth have been known for years to
try out new looks and fashions with their desire to find an
identity. Gang membership, research shows, should be
focused on behavior of individuals rather than strictly
appearance.
The situation in which clothing is seen is referred to as
context. Context can be defined in terms of time, space, or
experience. Why would context be important in determining
a youth’s membership in gangs? First, clothing worn in one
time period or another can take on different meanings.
Currently, the term ‘retro’ refers to clothing worn in earlier
generations. Individuals without any ‘time’ reference to
earlier fashions might not associate the same meaning with
clothing worn in an earlier time. Baby boomers may see long
hair differently than the current young generation. They do
not have the same time context.
Space can be what directly surrounds the viewer and as a
geographic location. An item of clothing on a rack in a store
is out of context, it has no meaning. However, when worn in
a particular setting with other apparel, it takes on a different
meaning. A bandana can be a scarf, a rag, or a flag of
identification. The type of apparel and how clothing is worn
varies from one location in the country/world to another.
Gang identity in one city may not be the same identifier in
another location.
Experience is another form of context. The experiences that
the viewer brings to the observation of clothing is very
important. Because each of our living experiences are
different, we do not necessarily make the same
interpretations. And as exposure to unique appearances
becomes more frequent, our individual reactions become less
strong.
Clothing is a strong communicator of roles and expectations
associated with behavior. The more we learn about clothing
behavior, the less often incorrect stereotypical judgments will
be made. The context in which clothing is observed should be
considered along with the behaviors of the individuals before
judgement is made.
Source:
Sharing program
ideas –
Creating interest in
textiles and clothing
Several agents have called over the past few months
requesting ideas for programs on the benefits of learning
to sew. Here’s what was shared with them. Send Pam Brown
an e-mail, < p-brown@tamu.edu >, if you have other ideas.
“Sewing is creative”
According to a study commissioned by the Home Sewing
Association (HSA), children who sewed simple projects
demonstrated elevated creativity, problem solving and
perseverance afterwards as compared to kids who watched
TV or played a video game.
Sewing uses a multitude of creative choices: colors, fabrics,
designs, techniques, and proportions. When compared to
Textile Clothes Line, Fall 1999 7
more passive activities like watching TV, sewing activities
can develop skills for a lifetime.
Sewing also helps kids:
• develop problem solving skills.
• experience a sense of accomplishment when a
project is completed.
• understand concepts of color, textiles, construction,
fit.
• learn to use and care for tools and equipment.
• develop and improve fine motor skills such as
eye/hand coordination.
• develop individual and team work skills.
• develop expressiveness.
The optimum time for learning and creativity is by ages 10
or 12.
Sewing also reduces STRESS. The activity has been shown to
promote relaxation and therefore reducing blood pressure,
heart rate, and perspiration rate in comparison to other
leisurely activities like card playing, painting, reading, or
playing a video game. Usually sewing is thought of as an
expression of creativity, yet even novice sewers experience
relaxation. Every BODY can benefit from rest from the hectic
lifestyles people are living today. Sewing helps the individual
to focus on something productive and positive, rather than
worries. Over 32% of respondents in an HSA survey indicated
that sewing is ‘relaxing.’
The top ten reasons people sew are:
1. Sense of accomplishment. 7. Pure enjoyment.
2. It’s relaxing. 8. Can be shared.
3. Saves money. 9. Means of self-
4. It’s a creative outlet. expression.
5. Impress people. 10. Way to make friends.
6. Satisfying to wear.
People often use these excuses for not sewing:
No time – what are they doing with their time? Is it a matter
of getting organized?
No money – sewing saves money, demonstrate the savings,
particularly with clothing repairs.
No space – start a sewing cooperative in a church,
community building, etc.
No fabric stores – sewing is experiencing a resurgence,
particularly sewing for the home. Fabric stores are located in
major discount stores, over the WWW, or through catalogs.
Check sewing magazines, i.e., Threads or Sew News for
sources.
No skill – recruit a volunteer to become a Master Clothing
Volunteer (MCV) to teach sewing skills or contact a nearby
chapter of the American Sewing Guild.
No projects – go to the Home Sewing Association Web site
for sources of inexpensive and simple sewing projects,
< http://www.sewing.org/ >. Or refer to the 4-H clothing
leader guide for project ideas. These offer age specific project
ideas and activities, lesson outlines, and specific information
on a variety of apparel and textile topics – ALL appropriate
for creating, making, and caring for family clothing.
Build a sewing business by developing or
improving skills that can become a business or land
a job. There is increasing demand for skilled labor in the
apparel industry. The jobs that have ‘gone overseas’ are
primarily unskilled, lower paying jobs in the apparel industry.
Growing in demand are custom clothiers, individuals who
sew for the ‘non-sewing’ public. As the number of women in
the workforce increases, the demand for custom sewing
increases. This is partially due to the price of career apparel,
desire for uniqueness and good fit, as well as interest in home
interior furnishings.
Looking for a sewing professional?
Talk to a local fabric store or sewing machine dealer. Check
with friends and acquaintances to get their recommendations.
Ask for contacts at the local dry cleaners. Contact
professional sewing organizations, such as the Professional
Association of Custom Clothiers. Check the yellow pages,
newspapers and store bulletin boards.
What to look for in a sewing professional?
Trust – this person will know everything about you. You
have to be totally at ease with the individual. Arrange a faceto-
face meeting. Be certain she understands your ‘vision’ for
the garment you want and is willing to accept criticism or
questions. Get detailed information on the quality of
workmanship, get references, examine actual samples of
finished garments. Ask about their training, particularly
specialized training. Discuss fees, hours of business, know
your own budget, expect to pay a deposit of 50% of the final
cost and sign a contract. Remember, a sewing professional is
a business person.
Source: American Home
Sewing Association,
< http://www.sewing.org/ >.
Educational Resources, Web Sites and Upcoming Events
Master Clothing Volunteer Training
March 28 - 31, 2000
Registration will be $55.00 plus hotel and transportation.
Reservations can be made with the Sumner Suites in
San Antonio (800-747-8483). Registration forms will be
available by January 15, 2000.
Sources of fashion information
This site contains some great sources for information on
fashion industry designers, top apparel sources, and design
information for 4-Hers, leaders, and master clothing
volunteers interested in the 4-H design project. Go to
workshops” to find the two sites: “Art, Design, and Visual
Thinking” and “The On-line Visual Literacy Project.”
Educational Packet
Clothes Do The Talking: Work And What To Wear
Topics to be addressed: understanding what clothing
communicates to those around us in work, school and social
environments. A set of videos has been ordered from Buffalo
State University in New York that addresses interviewing and
work dress for the welfare to work audience. These will be
available from the Resource Library to support this
educational packet and the BSSF Curriculum, Job Skills
section.
The American Apparel Manufacturers Association is another
source for clothing care information.
< http://www.americanapparel.org/
AAMA_Consum_Info.html >
TEXAS AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE
U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE
THE TEXAS A&M UNIVERSITY SYSTEM
COLLEGE STATION, TEXAS 77843
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