THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY

A CASE STUDY OF A BULGARIAN WOOLEN TEXTILE FIRM “WOOLTEX AD”∗
The History
Wooltex AD is the biggest joint stock company for the production of wool textile in the country. It has a full production cycle from
the input of washed raw wool to the finished fabric, including a small tailoring workshop.
Wooltex AD is located in a relatively large town in the central-east part of Bulgaria. The town is considered to be one of the three
textile centers in Bulgaria with a high concentration of wool and cotton fabric production. It is also the town with the earliest traditions in
organized industrial wool textile production. The first wool processing factory was established in 1834, which makes it the fist modern
industrial enterprise in Bulgaria, and in the beginning of XX century there were seven factories.
The history of Wooltex started in 1891 when the private company "Andonov & Mihailov" was established. It existed until December
1947 when nationalization took place and the communist government took over the company from its owners and made it a state owned
one. At that time the company was the biggest textile company in the country with modern (for its time) machinery and equipment, full
production cycle and developed wholesale network in Sofia. The number of employees in the 40's was 460.
After nationalization in 1947 till 1953 the company worked without any changes - it was managed by a managerial team, and was
given a new name. It was considered to be owned and run by the workers (a statement which seems quite populist today, but is actually not
far from the truth for that period). From 1954 to 1959 was a period of concentration of production and enlargement of existing companies
into the so called combinats (combined factories). Wooltex became the core of the established wool textile combinat - another six
companies were connected to it. The company was moved to a new site where it still resides. In the 70's and the beginning of 80's a new
machinery and equipment was installed for the replacement of the already depreciated nationalized equipment. At that time the so called
socialist integration was being build up and the Bulgarian woolen textile industry was oriented to the huge Ex-USSR market indirectly,
based on sales to tailoring companies which exported to Russia the finished garments. In the beginning of the 80's the annual production
reached 9 million meters and production capacities were fully utilized. As of 1982 the company was producing 16% of the country's wool
textile production and 25% of wool fabrics. The production program covered all types worsted-type and carded fabrics, blankets, worsted
and carded yarns, as well as curtains, industrial nets, shoe fabrics and other industrial products. It was one of the first companies which
started producing using wool in combination with cellulose and synthetic fibers. The number of employees at that time was 4,500 people.
∗ This is not the real name of the firm.

Texas Agricultural Extension Service • Chester P. Fehlis, Deputy Director • The Texas A&M University System • College Station, Texas
Volume 2, Fall 1999
IN THIS ISSUE
Topics in Clothing & Textile Industry
Children’s Sleepwear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Debate on Federal Industries
Production of Apparel . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Clothing Camp 1999 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Fibers and Fabrics
How Do You Remove Red Dirt Stains
from Clothes? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Generic Term for Cotton? . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Fashion Forecast
Fall/Winter 1999 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Tips and Trends
Laundry Facts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Sorting Secrets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Laundry/asthma Relationship . . . . . . . . . . 5
Hispanic Teen Purchasers . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Using Clothing to Identify Behavior . . . . . . 6
Sharing Program Ideas
Creating Interest in Textiles
and Clothing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Educational Resources
Web Sites and Upcoming Events . . . . . 8
Textile Clothes Line
is published by the
Texas Agricultural Extension Service
Family Development and Resource Management
Route 3, Box 213AA, Lubbock, Texas 79401-9746
phone: 806.746.6101 fax: 806.746.6528
Editor: Dr. Pamela J. Brown
Dr. Pamela J. Brown
Extension Specialist-Consumer Sciences
< p-brown@tamu.edu >
Educational programs serve people of all ages regardless
of socioeconomic level, race, color, sex, religion, disability
or national origin. The Texas A&M University System,
U.S. Department of Agriculture, and the County
Commissioners Courts of Texas Cooperating.
Topics on
Clothing and Textile Industry

Children’s Sleepwear
The Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) has reaffirmed its 1996 vote on the
exemption of snug-fitting and infant size pajamas from children’s sleepwear
flammability requirements. The ‘snug fit’ ruling will take effect June 28, 2000. The law
will require permanent labels and hangtags/garment stickers to advise parents of the
importance of insuring a snug fit for safety purposes. The ruling results from several years
of burn evidence that reveals no cases of a child being burned because he/she was wearing
snug-fitting sleepwear.
Children’s and infants sleepwear tends to burn easily when it is loose fitting or
particularly when worn so that loose parts of a garment can be exposed to flames easily.
Children’s sleepwear, according to CPSC, includes any product of wearing apparel in
sizes (0-14), such as night gowns, pajamas, robes, or similar related items that are
intended to be worn primarily for sleeping or sleep related activities. The CPSC exempts
diapers and underwear, infant garments nine months or younger (because these children
are not as mobile and exposed less to flames), and ‘tight fitting garments’ that meet
specific maximum dimensions. Loungewear must meet children’s sleepwear standards as
well.
Because the sale of tight fitting, non-flame resistant sleepwear is allowed, it is critical that
retail staff and consumers understand the need to buy garments that are properly sized for
a snug fit in children’s sizes larger than 9 months of age. What is a ‘snug fit?’ According
to the CPSC the garment must have contact with the skin at all points. These garments
will look smaller than traditional flame retardant sleepwear. Both sales staff and
consumers need to be aware that flame retardant sleepwear will continue to be available.
Consumers should remember that following the recommended laundry procedures on
flame retardant clothing labels will help preserve the flame retardant
finish.
Questions do arise concerning infant bedding. Bedding is not included
in the CPSC flame retardant guideline. Rather, bedding for infants
should be firm, not soft and fluffy, and sheets and blankets should fit
the mattress snuggly.
Other types of apparel can pose a flammability threat to consumer
safety. These include sheer rayon skirts and scarves, 100% silk
scarves, 100% chenille sweaters, rayon/nylon chenille and
2 Textile Clothes Line, Fall 1999
long hair sweaters, polyester/cotton and 100% cotton
fleece/sherpa garments and, 100% cotton terry robes. Since
1994, there have been 21 recalls of dangerously flammable
clothing in these categories. For more information on
flammability, refer to the Consumer Product Safety
Commission web site: .
Source: American Apparel Manufacturers of America Newsletter,
July/August 1999, p. 3.
Consumer Product Safety Commission
, November 25, 1997.
Debate on Federal Prison
Industries Production of Apparel
According to a press release from the American Apparel
Manufacturers Association (AAMA), the Federal Prison
Industries (FPI) is threatening the existence of small apparel
industry producers in the United States. Many of the small
producers, and the average apparel production business in the
U.S. is very small, produce many of the uniforms and
personal issue items for the U.S. armed forces.
At issue is the competition for diminishing Department of
Defense (DOD) dollars and the diversification of FPI product
lines. The latter issue impacts most greatly on DOD supplies
of products such as trousers and kevlar helmets. Adding to
the negative impact on small apparel producers is what is
called “mandatory source privilege” which means that
“federal agencies are required to purchase apparel and other
products produced by FPI regardless of price, quality, or
speed of delivery.” Legislation has been introduced that
would limit FPI’s by allowing it to sell in commercial markets
and phase out the mandatory source privilege. In Texas, the
Texas Correctional Industries produces, among many items,
cloth products, mattresses, mattress covers, clothing, towels,
state and safety flags, draperies and hardware.
Why would the AAMA be concerned with the Federal Prison
Industries system? The AAMA represents over 300 U.S.
companies as their national trade association. These
companies produce 85% of clothing sold at wholesale
(meaning that retail business owners purchase from these
companies, not the end user). The U.S. retail apparel market
is estimated at $180 billion dollars. According to the AAMA,
member companies are located in every state in the U.S. and
manufacture all types of garments.
Source: American Apparel Manufacturers Association,
< http://www.americanapparel.org/NewsR_July27.html >
< http://www.tdcj.state.tx.us/tci/tci-home.htm >
Clothing Camp 1999
4-H clothing camp was held in Dallas, July 22-24, with 94
participants. As a citizenship project, participants provided
Beanie Babies for the children at the Dallas Children’s
Hospital. The children were thrilled to receive them. Quality
of merchandise and comparison shopping was held at Neiman
Marcus and the Dallas Westend. The Dallas Design Initiative,
an organization committed to promoting, fostering and
supporting innovative talent though participation in the
Dallas design industries, gave a two hour presentation. Dallas
designers, models and business owners told their personal
stories of how they started their careers. Displays and a
fashion show of original designs was a camp highlight. Each
of the designers spent an hour after their presentation visiting
with the 4-Hers one on one. One of the designers who
provided clothing for the fashion show has sold her 1999
holiday designs to Neiman Marcus.
Tours included:
Cotton Incorporated – participants
learned about textiles, marketing, trends, new technology for
world markets and research of cotton fibers.
Gerber Garment Technology taught camp members about
computer uses in developing, designing and producing cost
effective samples for presentations and selling to the
customer.
Russell-Newman, Inc. presented an International side of
designing, marketing skills to gain new customers, marketing
products and staying competitive in order to remain in
business.
International Apparel Mart Miss Wade’s Fashion
Merchandising College owner provided information on
earning an associate of arts degree with job placement while
attending school in the fields fashion design, merchandising,
interior design, and computer graphic arts.
World Trade Center running tour was conducted to
familiarize the participants with the market and the John F.
Kennedy memorial.
The costume designer with the Dallas Children’s Theater
provided an hour presentation before for the production of
“The Hobbit” which was attended by the participants. The
designer taught about designing original costumes as well as
recycling garments from a variety of inexpensive sources to
create costumes that are acceptable to the play director as well
as the actors on a very low budget.
Bon Ton’s Upscale Fashion Boutique owner provided a
motivating talk to participants on being proud of yourself and
dressing to enhance your figure type. A tour and shopping of
the boutique concluded the camp for 1999.
Textile Clothes Line, Fall 1999 3
Fibers and Fabrics
“I had a question like that...”
Question:
How do you remove
red dirt stains in clothes?
Double check to be sure that what appears to be red dirt is
not a “rust” stain caused from excessive iron in the
water. If that is the case then DO NOT USE BLEACH.
There are three possible solutions to removing red dirt stains.
Be sure to read them all before suggesting any one method.
1. To remove mud (red clay) from bleachable fabrics: Make
a past of vinegar and table salt. Rub into stain and leave
for at least 30 minutes. Launder using hot water and
bleach. (BE CERTAIN THAT THE STAIN IS NOT
RUST!) Repeat if stain remains.
For non-bleachable fabrics: take to dry cleaners. This
may not be a solution if we’re talking about a load of kids
white socks.
2. If the stain appears to be a rust deposit, then bleach
should not be used at all in the wash. The use of a rust
remover is recommended in this situation. If the water
contains rust, the consumer may want to consider a water
treatment to remove rust from the household water
system.
3. The problem could be soil redisposition. This occurs
when soil removed from one or more articles in the wash
redeposits itself on other articles in the same load. This
causes unknown stains on possibly one or several pieces
of clothing.
Prevention:
Sort clothes carefully. Pretreat heavily soiled clothes and
wash them separately from lightly soiled clothes. Wash knits
and blends (cotton and polyester, for example) separately.
Washers should not be overloaded. Allow room (usually to
the top holes in the washer tub) to provide free circulation
and washing action. Packing the clothes too tightly in the
washer does not allow soil and residue to be rinsed away. Use
extra detergent, particularly in hard water. If the water is
hard, add water softener. Use hot water.
Generic Term for Cotton?
The generic name for cotton is “cotton”....not cellulose.
What is the definition of a generic name? It is the name
of a family of fibers all having similar chemical composition.
We normally think of polyester as a generic name for the
group or family of polyesters that are manufactured.
What is the definition of a trade name? It is the name given to
a fiber that distinguishes it from other fibers of the same
generic family that are made and sold by other producers.
The following is taken from the text “Textiles” by Kadolph,
Langford, Hollen, and Sandler, a reliable textile science text
used throughout the U.S. in textile science college level
courses.
Cellulosic fibers refer to the fiber bundles of plants that give
strength and pliability to their leaves, stems, and roots.
Cellulose is the source from which the fibers discussed in the
next paragraph come. Natural cellulosic textile fibers are
classified according to the portion of the plant from which
they are removed. These fibers are obtained from plants that
can be economically and easily separated from the rest of the
plant (i.e., cotton, jute, sisal).
Natural cellulosic fibers fall into three groups:
• Seed fibers – include cotton, kapok and coir
• Bast Fibers – include flax, ramie, hemp, jute, kenaf
• Leaf fibers – include pina, abaca, sisal and heneguen
Not all of these fibers are produced and available in the U.S.
Cotton, as well as flax, silk, and wool, are referred to as
“natural fibers” because they come from naturally occurring
plants, animals or insects (silk from silk worm larvae).
To say that cellulose is the generic term for
cotton is incorrect because it would also
have to be the generic term for all of
the cellulosic fibers listed above.
Thus, the fiber name and generic
name are one and the same for
cotton. Sometimes cotton is further
described with terms like Pima,
Supima, Sea Island, Egyptian, etc., but
those describe the variety of cotton (long staple)
and are not considered tradenames.
4 Textile Clothes Line, Fall 1999
Think about textile labels: An item made of cotton would not
list cellulose as the generic name because it would not
indicate which of the cellulosic fibers it describes.
The confusion seems to occur because manufactured fibers
are assigned both a generic name and a trade name. For
example, Acetate, Triacetate, and Rayon are manufactured
fibers produced from cellulosic derivatives. Yet as the list of
manufactured fibers has increased so has the list of trade
names.
Fashion Forecast
Fall/Winter 1999
Women’s Fashions
The two most exciting new developments in women’s
fashion involve fabrics and color. And while the color
changes are obvious, the fabric innovations are far more
subtle. Teflon-coated knits and wovens have an invisible
shield to protect them from spills and stains. It may cut down
on trips to the dry cleaners but it doesn’t change the
appearance, weight, touch or breathability of the fabric. Other
fabrics are disguised to the point that the fiber content label is
the only clue to their true origins. Fabrics are felted, padded,
waxed, laminated, fused, coated and bonded to look nothing
like their usual selves. Hand-felted silks look like blankets,
washed wools look like flannels and polar fleece looks like
shearling. At least one designer introduced “living rubber”
garments that change colors with body heat.
Shots of color play against the seasonless neutrals: black,
gray, beige and camel. Silver, red, pale green, purple, fuschia,
orange and chrome yellow are showing up in shawls, ponchos
and serapes, in shaped turtleneck sweaters, in short coats and
in edgings.
Men’s Fashions
As men’s fashion moves into the 21st century, it blends
form with function and technology with earthy elements,
says The Soap and Detergent Association. Bonded, doublefaced
fabrics, laser-cut leathers, hardware on apparel, dress
slacks in 100-plus worsteds, stretch blends with Lycra
spandex and topcoat-style raincoats with Velcro closures are
some of the season’s most exciting looks.
The hottest trend in jeans is dirty denim – worn and dusty,
right off of the construction site. Those that aren’t completely
down and dirty are treated to a vintage-looking wash or are
subject to seam abrasions, fabric abrasion or actually
shredded and torn.
One the suit scene, it’s a navy and gray world, as it has been
for several seasons. To counteract this sameness of color, the
silhouette is subtly changing: slimmer lines, narrower
shoulder width, slightly longer coats, higher side vents, raised
button-stance, narrower lapels and trimmer trousers with
single pleats or not pleats.
Casual ties are made from softer fabrics, including knits, and
are more narrow. Interesting fabric blends of silk/wool,
improve the hand of ties as well as provide subtle texture.
Neckwear designed to benefit worthy causes, i.e. Save the
Children, is a growing trend.
Children’s Fashions
Back-to-school fashions take a uniform approach. An
increasing number of public, as well as private schools,
are instituting a uniform dress policy. Public school versions
sometimes have subtle stylist upgrades, such as changes in
collar styles, sweaters instead of blazers or color variations.
But the goal is the same: everyone similarly dressed in
nondescript clothes, such as khaki pants, polo shirts, simple
jumpers and skirts. School uniforms may not be big fashion,
but in the kids’ apparel market, they are becoming big
business, observes The Soap and Detergent Association.
Other trends to watch in children’s wear include ultra-dark
indigo denim jeans with cuffed bottoms, A-line skirts topped
with easy twin sets, cargo pants with contrast topstitching,
jersey tops, flannel shirts in softer plaids and slim corduroy
jackets. Watch for glimmer and sparkle in small accents or as
a full-force glamour attack.
Source: Cleanliness Facts, The Soap and Detergent Association, July/August
1999.
Teens and Fashion
Teens are fashion conscious. They are responsible for $40
billion in apparel sales this past year. Labeled as
Generation Y, ages 4-21, they are the children of Baby
Boomers. Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor TM shows
that 63 percent of young women ages 16 to 19 agree that it
was very important to have an up-to-date wardrobe. This
figure is 20 percent higher than all women surveyed who
agreed with the statement. Sixty-two percent of the teenage
girls stated that they are more likely to buy separate pieces
from different stores than to buy an entire outfit at one store,
whereas half of the older women surveyed would prefer to buy
the ensemble.
Textile Clothes Line, Fall 1999 5
Internet technology is expanding teens’ sources of fashion
influence. Retailers are quickly tapping into the teen market
providing easy to reach information on fashion trends. Fewer
fashion rules characterize the teen market. Teens are making
their own clothing choices at an earlier age (13-15). By
16-18, three-fourths are not using any parental guidance on
clothing choices.
Source Cotton, Inc. October 1999,
Developing Careers in CAD -
Computer Aided Design
Computer Aided Design (CAD) is a career option for those
aspiring designers, but not only in fashion. Add to the
design realm CAD in home interiors, furnishings, textile
manufacturing, or free lance consulting. In a 1998 survey of
CAD workers, starting salaries ranged from $18,000-
$37,000. The average length of stay in a CAD position was
1-3 years. Eighty-two percent of CAD workers were women.
Salaries for various positions in CAD included:
designer/stylist = $39,000; Senior designers = $58,811.
Salaries increased significantly after 10-15 years in a
position. CAD education is available through technical
colleges, 2 year colleges and 4 year institutions.
T i p s a n d T r e n d s
Who’s doing the laundry?
Not surprisingly, households with children use
more laundry detergent, and especially
heavy duty detergent. Singles, on the other hand,
buy less laundry detergent. Because they tend to
be apartment dwellers, singles wash their clothes
at laundromats and purchase ‘single-use’ detergent packages.
Fast growing businesses are laundry detergent dispensers and
wash/dry/fold/deliver services.
Source: American Demographics, July 1996, p 8.
Sorting Secrets
First, sort by color. Wash all whites separately; pastels and
medium colors together; brights and darks by themselves.
Pay special attention to white and lightly colored synthetics,
as they readily pick up dark dyes from other fabrics during
washing.
Sort out those heavily soiled items from lightly soiled once,
since lightly soiled items can pick up the extra soil from the
wash water. Whites will slowly get
grayer or yellower; colors will
become duller and duller.
Source: Cleanliness Facts, The Soap
and Detergent Association, July/August
1999.
Laundry Facts
Consumers wash over 660,000 wash loads every week, and
women do 88% of these loads. Generally speaking, the
life expectancy of washable apparel is 50 washings. The
actual life of these garments can be anywhere from less than a
year to several years depending on the frequency of washing.
Underwear and socks that get washed regularly, may last less
than a year. Garments worn only for special occasions or
seasonally may last for several years.
Colored items are the most frequent type of wash load (36%
of all loads). Whites and mixed color loads are next (18%
each). The consumer demand for all- or mostly cotton
garments is rising. Thus, the driver for increased wash loads
is colored, cotton apparel.
Source: Cleanliness Facts, The Soap and Detergent Association, July/August
1999.
Laundry/asthma relationship
The Soap and Detergent Association recommends a wash
temperature of 140° F for 10 minutes to effectively kill
dust mites. This contradicts the usual washing temperature of
the average consumer (88° F in 1994). To counteract cooler
washing habits, SDA now recommends washing bedding at
least weekly in warm water. This will remove the allergens,
according to SDA. Drying bedding in the dryer will kill dust
mites if the dryer is set at a normal temperature and the
bedding is allowed to dry for 10 minutes. For more
information go to .
Source: Cleanliness Facts, July/Aug. 1999, Tips and Trends from the Soap and
Detergent Association.
6 Textile Clothes Line, Fall 1999
Hispanic teen purchasers
American Demographics (May 1999) reports that fashion
and beauty publications are targeting Hispanic teens.
Why? On average, Hispanic teens spend $375/month, 7.8%
more than the average teen. “Girls spend 60% more on
makeup than other female teens, 50% more on acne products
and more than twice as much on
hair products.” (p.37). What is
the Hispanic teen girl more
likely to buy? Items include
casual shoes, athletic wear,
designer jeans, pantyhose, hair
gel, mousse, and hair spray.
Three teen publications are
now marketing to Hispanic
teens: Latingirl, SuperOnda, and Latina. Over $140 billion
dollars were spent by teens in the U.S. in 1998, with Hispanic
teens contributing 14% of the total or $20 billion. That
percentage is estimated to increase to 17% by 2005.
Source: “Los Ninos go shopping,” American Demographics, May,
1999, p. 37-39.
Using clothing to identify behavior
Clothing is thought to be one sign of gang membership.
However, one of the pitfalls of using clothing as the
single source of identification of any group is stereotyping.
Researchers at the University of California - Davis have been
studying gang identification for over ten years. Our
appearance is one key way that we as human beings have of
making sense of the visual world. Clothing provides ‘cues’ to
those around us of what a person might be like, or might
behave. We often assume that a person dressed in a suit is a
professional or that a woman dressed very suggestively is
setting herself up for rape. However, our judgements can be
wrong, resulting in barriers in communication between
observers and wearers. Youth have been known for years to
try out new looks and fashions with their desire to find an
identity. Gang membership, research shows, should be
focused on behavior of individuals rather than strictly
appearance.
The situation in which clothing is seen is referred to as
context. Context can be defined in terms of time, space, or
experience. Why would context be important in determining
a youth’s membership in gangs? First, clothing worn in one
time period or another can take on different meanings.
Currently, the term ‘retro’ refers to clothing worn in earlier
generations. Individuals without any ‘time’ reference to
earlier fashions might not associate the same meaning with
clothing worn in an earlier time. Baby boomers may see long
hair differently than the current young generation. They do
not have the same time context.
Space can be what directly surrounds the viewer and as a
geographic location. An item of clothing on a rack in a store
is out of context, it has no meaning. However, when worn in
a particular setting with other apparel, it takes on a different
meaning. A bandana can be a scarf, a rag, or a flag of
identification. The type of apparel and how clothing is worn
varies from one location in the country/world to another.
Gang identity in one city may not be the same identifier in
another location.
Experience is another form of context. The experiences that
the viewer brings to the observation of clothing is very
important. Because each of our living experiences are
different, we do not necessarily make the same
interpretations. And as exposure to unique appearances
becomes more frequent, our individual reactions become less
strong.
Clothing is a strong communicator of roles and expectations
associated with behavior. The more we learn about clothing
behavior, the less often incorrect stereotypical judgments will
be made. The context in which clothing is observed should be
considered along with the behaviors of the individuals before
judgement is made.
Source:
Sharing program
ideas –
Creating interest in
textiles and clothing
Several agents have called over the past few months
requesting ideas for programs on the benefits of learning
to sew. Here’s what was shared with them. Send Pam Brown
an e-mail, < p-brown@tamu.edu >, if you have other ideas.
“Sewing is creative”
According to a study commissioned by the Home Sewing
Association (HSA), children who sewed simple projects
demonstrated elevated creativity, problem solving and
perseverance afterwards as compared to kids who watched
TV or played a video game.
Sewing uses a multitude of creative choices: colors, fabrics,
designs, techniques, and proportions. When compared to
Textile Clothes Line, Fall 1999 7
more passive activities like watching TV, sewing activities
can develop skills for a lifetime.
Sewing also helps kids:
• develop problem solving skills.
• experience a sense of accomplishment when a
project is completed.
• understand concepts of color, textiles, construction,
fit.
• learn to use and care for tools and equipment.
• develop and improve fine motor skills such as
eye/hand coordination.
• develop individual and team work skills.
• develop expressiveness.
The optimum time for learning and creativity is by ages 10
or 12.
Sewing also reduces STRESS. The activity has been shown to
promote relaxation and therefore reducing blood pressure,
heart rate, and perspiration rate in comparison to other
leisurely activities like card playing, painting, reading, or
playing a video game. Usually sewing is thought of as an
expression of creativity, yet even novice sewers experience
relaxation. Every BODY can benefit from rest from the hectic
lifestyles people are living today. Sewing helps the individual
to focus on something productive and positive, rather than
worries. Over 32% of respondents in an HSA survey indicated
that sewing is ‘relaxing.’
The top ten reasons people sew are:
1. Sense of accomplishment. 7. Pure enjoyment.
2. It’s relaxing. 8. Can be shared.
3. Saves money. 9. Means of self-
4. It’s a creative outlet. expression.
5. Impress people. 10. Way to make friends.
6. Satisfying to wear.
People often use these excuses for not sewing:
No time – what are they doing with their time? Is it a matter
of getting organized?
No money – sewing saves money, demonstrate the savings,
particularly with clothing repairs.
No space – start a sewing cooperative in a church,
community building, etc.
No fabric stores – sewing is experiencing a resurgence,
particularly sewing for the home. Fabric stores are located in
major discount stores, over the WWW, or through catalogs.
Check sewing magazines, i.e., Threads or Sew News for
sources.
No skill – recruit a volunteer to become a Master Clothing
Volunteer (MCV) to teach sewing skills or contact a nearby
chapter of the American Sewing Guild.
No projects – go to the Home Sewing Association Web site
for sources of inexpensive and simple sewing projects,
< http://www.sewing.org/ >. Or refer to the 4-H clothing
leader guide for project ideas. These offer age specific project
ideas and activities, lesson outlines, and specific information
on a variety of apparel and textile topics – ALL appropriate
for creating, making, and caring for family clothing.
Build a sewing business by developing or
improving skills that can become a business or land
a job. There is increasing demand for skilled labor in the
apparel industry. The jobs that have ‘gone overseas’ are
primarily unskilled, lower paying jobs in the apparel industry.
Growing in demand are custom clothiers, individuals who
sew for the ‘non-sewing’ public. As the number of women in
the workforce increases, the demand for custom sewing
increases. This is partially due to the price of career apparel,
desire for uniqueness and good fit, as well as interest in home
interior furnishings.
Looking for a sewing professional?
Talk to a local fabric store or sewing machine dealer. Check
with friends and acquaintances to get their recommendations.
Ask for contacts at the local dry cleaners. Contact
professional sewing organizations, such as the Professional
Association of Custom Clothiers. Check the yellow pages,
newspapers and store bulletin boards.
What to look for in a sewing professional?
Trust – this person will know everything about you. You
have to be totally at ease with the individual. Arrange a faceto-
face meeting. Be certain she understands your ‘vision’ for
the garment you want and is willing to accept criticism or
questions. Get detailed information on the quality of
workmanship, get references, examine actual samples of
finished garments. Ask about their training, particularly
specialized training. Discuss fees, hours of business, know
your own budget, expect to pay a deposit of 50% of the final
cost and sign a contract. Remember, a sewing professional is
a business person.
Source: American Home
Sewing Association,
< http://www.sewing.org/ >.
Educational Resources, Web Sites and Upcoming Events
˜ ˜ ˜ ˜
Master Clothing Volunteer Training
March 28 - 31, 2000
Registration will be $55.00 plus hotel and transportation.
Reservations can be made with the Sumner Suites in
San Antonio (800-747-8483). Registration forms will be
available by January 15, 2000.
˜ ˜ ˜ ˜
Sources of fashion information

This site contains some great sources for information on
fashion industry designers, top apparel sources, and design
information for 4-Hers, leaders, and master clothing
volunteers interested in the 4-H design project. Go to
then click on “teaching
workshops” to find the two sites: “Art, Design, and Visual
Thinking” and “The On-line Visual Literacy Project.”
˜ ˜ ˜ ˜
˜ ˜ ˜ ˜
Educational Packet
Clothes Do The Talking: Work And What To Wear
Topics to be addressed: understanding what clothing
communicates to those around us in work, school and social
environments. A set of videos has been ordered from Buffalo
State University in New York that addresses interviewing and
work dress for the welfare to work audience. These will be
available from the Resource Library to support this
educational packet and the BSSF Curriculum, Job Skills
section.
˜ ˜ ˜ ˜
The American Apparel Manufacturers Association is another
source for clothing care information.
< http://www.americanapparel.org/
AAMA_Consum_Info.html >
˜ ˜ ˜ ˜
TEXAS AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE
U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE
THE TEXAS A&M UNIVERSITY SYSTEM
COLLEGE STATION, TEXAS 77843
OFFICIAL BUSINESS
Penalty For Private Use, $300

# diposting oleh jogjaGroups @ 18.18 0 Komentar

The Technical Textiles Industry in North America
William C. Smith
INDUSTRIAL TEXTILE ASSOCIATES
Greer, SC 20650-3013 USA
billsmith@intexa.com/www.intexa.com
Introduction
It is hard to look find good news about the textile industry in North America. But the technical textiles
industry in North America, the largest in the world, is, as a whole, alive and well - for now. Largely
unheralded and under-reported, its hard to get a completely accurate picture, but most observers feel
that, while slowing, the industry is in good shape with its long term future depends on the economic
situation not only in NA but the world. While NA industry has had a tendency to look inward, it is
becoming much more globally oriented.
Yes, the NA technical textiles industry is feeling the impact of a slowing economy, even a recession in
some manufacturing areas. And the industry is highly sensitive to the economy. But most indicators,
those areas that have a major influence on the industry, is in reasonably good shape. Even with a
slowdown, many areas are at historic highs. Yes, NA industry is losing some business to low wage
countries, especially in the routine, high volume, lower technology items. And, yes, it has been
changed a bit by imports and various trade agreements, and will be even more in the future. By 2005
when all US duties for WTO countries are eliminated there will be a real test to see who survives and
prospers. The leading companies are developing strategies and making moves to be prepared.
Trade agreements, particularly NAFTA and the CBI agreements, have caused revision in business
strategies. NAFTA (the North American Free Trade Agreement) is the most prominent one and
concerns primarily Mexico, Canada, and the United States. The CBI (Caribbean Basin Initiative)
involves more than a dozen near-by countries and allows US textiles or components to be shipped for
sewing and fabrication and shipped back with duties only on value added. While imports were at the
highest level, US exports set new records in 2000, mostly to Mexico as part of the NAFTA and CBI.
Those two agreements have had a major impact on apparel, but less so on industrial textiles. But
there has been impact, and some leading companies are using the trade agreements to help
compete, even to find and exploit new markets.
But the changes have been more toward consolidation, developing and utilizing new technology,
changing the way business is done, becoming more competitive, more innovative, and solidifying
positions in several markets - even becoming more active in exporting.
The Industry
The industrial or technical textiles industry (IT/TT) -- here treated as the same -- is highly fragmented.
No one really knows its size as no one agrees on the actual definition and makeup of the industry. For
our purposes, we will use a very general definition and say that if you don't wear it as routine wearing
apparel, and if you don't use it to decorate your home, then it is industrial -- materials chosen for
function rather than aesthetics. That's imprecise, but it is functional and we'll accept it.
Messe Frankfurt commissioned David Rigby Associates (UK) a few years ago to try and categorize
and get a better understanding of just how large the industry and its segments might really be. It is a
landmark study, a great place to start. While one may disagree with some of the numbers, and some
markets have changed, it serves to put the industry in perspective, and in a way not previously known.
According to the Rigby study, North America accounted for about 33% of all IT/TT world consumption
in 1995. Today it is about 30% - and by 2005, it will be about 28% due to off shore competition,
particularly China, taking larger market shares. While the NA world market share may decline –
overall production will increase. What the change in market share may really mean to us is that other
countries are developing uses for IT/TT as well. But this growth also creates opportunity, especially
for exporting of high-end specialty products.
An adapted version of Rigby's numbers is given in Table 1. This table summarizes the information for
Messe Frankfurt's 12 segments (renamed) as they pertain to North America.
Application
Poundage
1995
(Tons)
$ Value
1995
($Million)
Poundage
2005
(Tons)
$ Value
2005
($Million)
%CAGR
‘95-’05
(Consumption)
Agricultural 150 590 168 663 1.1
Construction 405 1147 528 1551 2.7
Clothing/Shoes -
Technical Components
176 1485 154 1287 (-1.3)
Geotextiles 84 389 143 659 5.4
Home Applications -
Technical Components
554 2443 788 3385 3.6
Industrial Applications 544 2579 739 3543 3.1
Medical 368 2021 409 2276 1.1
Transportation 530 3139 633 3612 1.8
Environmental 56 312 90 458 4.9
Packaging 119 524 154 700 2.6
Protective 45 435 61 620 3.0
Sport/Leisure 82 513 109 628 2.9
Totals 3113T $15,577 3976T $19,382 2.4%
Source: David Rigby Associates, Manchester, UK/Messe Frankfurt, Frankfurt, Germany, 1997
Table 1 - North American textile volume (tons) and growth
By application and dollar value ($million) by application 1995-2005
Table 2 presents data from another perspective – how many pounds of fibers are used for selected
end uses. Though significant, these markets are only a small part of the overall industry.
U.S. Industrial Market for Textile Fibers By Application
(Millions of pounds)
Application 1983 1993 1998 AGR % 93/98
Tires
Coated Fabrics
Transportation Fabrics
Hose & Belting
Filtration
Electrical and Related
Felts
Total
334
111
64
82
30
15
27
663
353
251
113
89
32
56
52
946
392
300
130
100
35
75
60
1092
2.2
3.9
5.0
2.5
1.9
6.8
3.1
3.0
AGR 93/98 = % Annual Growth Rate 1993 to 1998
Source: The Freedonia Group & Technical Textiles International
Table 2 – U.S. Industrial Markets for Fibers - by Specific Applications
Table 3 presents data on other selected subsets that might otherwise get lost – including such things
as rope and cordage and sewing thread.
Selected Markets – Industrial Textiles
(millions of square yards or pounds as indicated)
Hose………………….…. 41** Impression………………. 50
Rope & Cordage……….. 210* Wall covering………………700
Sailcloth………………... 10 Apparel care labels………… 15
Tufted Carpet backing… 970 Filtration…………………….. 49
Sewing thread …………..145*
* millions of pounds ** prorated to yards Estimated 1999 Data from various sources
Table 3 – Usage in selected industrial textile markets
The automobile industry is the largest user of industrial textiles, in terms of dollars, in North America,
with most items, especially the decorative interior items, are relatively high in price.
Table 4 - Textile Usage in Automotives
Table 4 - Automotive Interiors - Average usage by square yards.
The figures in table 4 do not include airbags, an application using over 70 million square yards in
North America alone. Nor does it include textiles in tires, belts, hoses, filters, sound/vibration
dampening, etc. Add that to the fact overall usage of textiles in automotives is increasing; so, even
with an anticipated drop in car production, textile usage could actually grow.
The are many millions of yards used in medical or hygiene areas, most of it single use nonwovens of
lesser value than, say, the needled nonwoven fabric used for headliner in a car, or even for trunk
lining. And where do you include diaper stock, cosmetic wipes, and the like? And what of the
papermaking fabrics used in giant paper machines, often not counted but a billion dollar market? We
could list many more "where do you put it?" items. But this data serves our purposes to put things in
perspective.
When the DRA study was first done, I thought the overall NA numbers were a little low, and they may
have been considering the unprecedented robust economy in the United States. Given today's
perceived outlook and projections, the 2.4% overall growth may be about right, at least 2005 when
most import duties will be eliminated for WTO countries.
Impacting The Industry
There are many factors, of course, that impact the industry - for good or bad. Not all of them are due
to a slowing economy. We are experiencing many textile plant closings in my area, the so-called
"textile belt." Much of this news gives a false impression of the industry, at least where IT/TT are
concerned. Imports and a slowing economy are often blamed, and for many, that is certainly the case,
much is also due to increased production efficiencies rendering an older plant obsolete and/or no
longer needed. Too, markets shift and change. Nonwovens may have taken away a market for woven
fabrics. In some cases customers of the fabric producers are putting in fabric making equipment of
their own. At least one major coater has become a net fabric producer and seller. One IT/TT company
even makes its own fibers, selling the excess of his unique product. This isn't practical for everyone,
but a number are doing it and we can expect to see more. Such extensions of their business will
Cars Lt. Trucks
Seating - 7.2 4.9
Headliner - 4.8 3.3
Carpeting - 4.5 3.2
Trunks - 1.5 1.1
Quarterpanels 4.3 3.0
Misc.: 2.5 1.7
24.8 sy 17.2 sy
When doing interviews for this presentation, one respondent had firm ideas. Business is definitely
slow for most everyone, he says, and definitely softer everywhere. But two major things are
happening.
1) Last year when business was good, manufacturers maintained excessive inventories. Business still
isn't that horribly bad now, but companies need work off excessive stock and/or adjust capacity.
Companies making fibers, yarns, nonwovens, and woven or knitted fabrics are seeking a larger share
of the business in those areas where the buying is still strong. In many cases, price-cutting is being
used to obtain business needed to run plants and not lay off or lose the precious work force that has
been difficult to obtain and train in the boom and labor shortage.
2) There simply are too many suppliers in the textile and nonwoven industry for when business gets
slow. Unless things pick up, it could be a problem by the 3rd quarter with many weak companies
failing and/or be bought out or merged. Some feel that might be a good thing for the industry overall
and make it stronger.
Many areas are still reasonable strong, but no market segment is outstanding. New technology or
needs - like the introduction and rapid growth of airbags and adoption of single-ply membrane roofing
- often result in new products and create new market segments for industrial textiles. Personal body
armor - ballistic vests - are doing well as many foreign governments are upgrading their military, with
much of this utilizing the para-aramid Kevlar. But DuPont cannot make enough Kevlar to meet all
needs, in part due to the rapid expansion of Kevlar as reinforcement in fiber optic reinforcement.
There is some room for optimism. Some of the other factors giving hope to a reasonably good year
include:
1) Housing starts, tho down, are at a historical high. Construction is one of the largest
industrial textile markets.
2) An expected 10% drop in car sales still means almost 16 million cars – normally
that would be considered a good year
3) Emphasis on cleaning environment, though enforcement is spotty in bad times, and if
plants are not running, then filter fabrics are not being used.
4) Emphasis on rebuilding infrastructure - bridges and roads need a lot of rework and
industrial textiles are heavily used, albeit nonwoven.
5) Oil/Energy Production at high levels and expected to increase.
6) Power Plants running full tilt requiring filter fabrics, among other materials.
7) 2000 was a boom year for tire shipments, partly due to the large recall, but with good car
year and with a heavy buying of used cars, more tires are needed -- and tires use a lot of
fabric.
So, while the general economy may slow down, things are reasonably well.
And The Future?
There's no question, the future of the industrial textile industry in North America will depend heavily on
new technology and the application of that technology to solve problems. Others can beat us with
items that require a lot of hand labor. But as North America extends trade agreement with central and
ultimately to South America, lower cost labor, will be less of a factor.
And the NA industry is creative and innovative in finding new products and applications.
What will impact the industry favorably? Some of the things coming along that will make a great
impact include:
1) Smart textiles - Call them smart, intelligent or interactive. Such textiles react to outside
stimuli and do something -- conduct electricity to open or close switches, to give off heat,
change color, or other special features.
2) New fibers/yarns - What's on the horizon? PLA (poly lactic acid) fibers from corn have
good properties, comparable to polyester, and are rapidly being commercialized. And
eventually, extreme strength fabrics made from spider web silk, produced with the help of
biotechnology. What about self-repairing fibers/yarns/fabrics? Not out of the question. A
form of self-repairing plastic has been announced, why not yarn and fibers? One of the
fastest growing developments is the use of bicomponent fibers for special properties,
special monofilaments designed for unique end uses such as elastomerics, optics, high
strength, etc.. And those are only some of the new ideas, only a beginning.
3) And of course innovative and creative application for this new technology, new uses and
markets, applications we did not have before. Airbags are perhaps the most dramatic new
volume application. The aforementioned application of para-aramids to reinforce fiber
optics, a rapidly growing market, is creating a greater demand for these fibers. And there
is growth in advanced composites and architectural fabrics. And there are more.
Trends
1) The traditional vendor-user supply chain is changing. A major trend worth noting is the extensive
integration/consolidation resulting from companies buying other companies, including intercontinental
alliances, and by traditional suppliers vertically integrating, adding value, and going the “next step” in
production, often doing those things their customers do. By contrast, many of the fabric supplier’s
customers are themselves integrating downward by producing their own fabric in-house, even selling
surplus fabric to others, becoming more like “traditional” textile companies. Some companies are
adding fiber/yarn-making capabilities, some from recycled materials, even selling excess capacity.
They have, in effect, become their own suppliers as well as providers of materials to their competition,
thereby competing with conventional suppliers. Others are getting out of less profitable, commodity
items, and/or greige goods to concentrate on areas providing better return, more often with valueadded
products. The defining lines are blurring further.
2) Another major trend is globalization. NA companies are making alliances overseas, setting up joint
ventures, plants, and more effective distribution channels. And a growing number of overseas
companies are expanding in NA by setting up shop here, establishing joint ventures, buying existing
companies, or setting up entirely new operations, often less expensively than in their home region – a
rather interesting change. Reflecting the changing global economy, some are even opening North
American operations specifically to produce materials to be used in products exported back to their
home country or region; not unlike some NA companies setting up operations in the far east or Mexico
to produce products for familiar trade names, where the high-cost labor component is done offshore,
often using US or locally fabricated NA components for finished products shipped back to NA. And
NAFTA has had a major influence on US producers. Many have set up operations in Mexico.
Trade agreements are becoming an important business factor in NA. With such a large market, the
need to export has been not as great as in many other areas. However, as we become more global, it
is necessary to look to exports as a growth area. NAFTA and CBI offer mostly places where goods
can be fabricated and shipped back to the US, taking advantage of lower cost labor. Canada has
expanded exports to the United States. Mexico export growth to the United States is in double digit
increases.
3) The primary vehicle for growth in export and foreign markets, as it is in NA, is specialty and/or
niche markets.
Many of specialty materials go into unique and narrowly focused products – often with detailed
specifications, and other restrictive provisions - products and restrictions not easily obtained or
mastered by many of the high volume far east and Pacific Rim producers, especially in the marketing,
technical, and service are Maintaining inventory on those items would not be cost effective, so many
are just-in-time or custom-made type situations. While those specialty areas are likely to be more
“import resistant”, the great majority of technical or industrial fabrics are easily produced anywhere in
sufficient quantities and quality levels to compete with US companies – so the vulnerability is there. It
is the service to the customer that gives NA companies an edge. The key is innovation in applying
Niche markets/specialty textiles are getting more respect from suppliers. Chemical companies and
machinery manufacturers are recognizing the potential, they are listening, and they are focusing
considerable efforts on more effective and efficient materials and machinery to produce specialty
industrial fabrics. As one major loom supplier representative put it, the special demands of the
industrial textiles can often result in more profit on just one or two customized machines than a sale of
many machines to produce commodity materials.
4) Traditional producers are also gearing up for more efficient production of smaller runs, cutting costs
and becoming lean, low-cost producers. While smaller, such runs can be more profitable if properly
done. Inventory, except for the most basic items, is being curtailed and production more closely
matched to actual need. In some cases, suppliers are setting up operations near their major
customer; a needle felt producer locating near a major filtration customer, an automotive carpet
supplier locating near the assembly plant. The automotive industry is a good example – relying on
just-in-time concepts, consolidation of efforts, buying companies, locally and abroad, to become Tier 1
suppliers, to gain market share, reduce inventory, and help to make a profit in spite of reduced selling
prices.
And everyone who plans to stay in business is concentrating on reducing cost in order to effectively
compete in the market place. If you haven't already done that, you are in trouble.
5) And E-commerce is a reality. One industry executive feels e-commerce is as important as the
industrial revolution as to how it will impact our lives. The question is how, not whether will happen.
We may not have found the right model yet and some companies in the field will fade out, companies
must find ways to make e-commerce work for them. Not just websites and email, but full, on-line,
functional catalogs and detailed product information, inventory review, transmittal of test data, order
placement, order tracking, invoicing, funds transfers -- all will be a reality soon. In many cases, it
already affects how we run our business and it will affect how we do business with others. And the
successful company will be prepared. NA is rapidly developing this capability.
Truly, the IT/TT industry is truly a dynamic and constantly evolving one. And the NA industry will
continue to be a leader in product development and application. Yes, we are concerned. We do track
the economy in many vital ways. But we will weather the current storm and be ready to lead the
industry to the future.

FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe July / October 2004, Vol. 12, No. 3 (47)
8
GENERAL PROBLEMS IN THE FIBRE AND TEXTILE INDUSTRIES
n European Textile Industry
The textile and clothing industry is one of the world’s most global industries, and constitutes an important source of income and employment for many EU countries. It is important to be aware of how the European textile and clothing industry operates, as well as its many complex structures and processes.
The textile industry is a multifaceted area requiring a deep understanding of design, management and technology. It plays a crucial role in creating innovative and attractive products of multiple uses for various users. It accounts for 5.7% of the production value of world manufacturing
output, 8.3% of the value of manufactured goods traded in the world, and over 14% of world employment. In the EU in 1999, 120,000 textile and clothing companies employed over two million people, thus accounting for 7.6% of total employment of EU manufacturing
industry. In terms of production and turnover, the sector’s share was about 4% [2] (Table 1).
Α recent survey of the textile/clothing industry in Europe by the European Commission illustrated the size and importance of the textile industry in the European economy and highlighted the challenge it faces. While the textile industry employed 1.35 million in the mid-90s, this workforce was reduced to fewer than 1,100,000 at the turn of the twenty-first century. Almost a quarter of the jobs in textile/clothing disappeared between 1990 and 1996, and this trend has been continuing since, albeit at a slower pace. It is estimated that 92,000 jobs were lost in 1999, but despite this, the textile/clothing sector continues to employ two million people today, and remains an important source of jobs in the EU, especially for the female population.
Exports accounting for 18.5% of the European textiles and clothing industry in 1999 are still essential for European producers.
The textile/clothing decline has mainly occurred in manufacturing sectors, as production has moved outside the EU (Table 1). The major retail networks are playing an increasingly important role in the textile/clothing sectors, particularly in textiles. With their large number of sales outlets (sometimes established in several countries), governed by a search for low production costs, they are tending to replace traditional manufacturers and to issue their own articles with their own logo, manufactured by subcontractors located outside of the EU. This is a signal
for the future of the industry, with possible remedies coming from changes in the management culture and from seizing the opportunities presented by new electronically-based technologies. There may be significant increases in the numbers of people employed in positions such as managers, designers, technicians and administrators in sales and marketing.
It is crucial to this development that the need for mobility, flexibility and language competence of personnel in the European textile/clothing industry is fully
recognised.
The EU industry is also exposed to competition from a large number of low-labour cost countries, especially in Asia. Despite the huge labour cost differences between those countries and Europe, the textile/clothing industry remains competitive
due to higher productivity and the competitive strengths of innovation, quality, creativity, design and fashion. Structural changes facilitated by EU structural funds have been accompanied by the development of innovative products
and processes, as well as electronic commerce, which is slowly making its entry in the supply and distribution chain. Additional problems the sector is suffering from include insufficient investment
in research and innovation, and the difficulties of SMEs in entering the new economy. Better co-ordination is required
in strengthening the effectiveness and the synergy of numerous activities in this area.
Employment and training have become priorities for the EU. They are characterised
by the need to employ both low-skilled and high-skilled workers and
A European Module in the Textile Industry
Margaret C. Perivoliotis
Faculty of Graphic Arts and Design
Technological Educational
Institution (TEI) of Athens
Spyridonos Street, Egaleo, 12210 Athens, Greece
Corresponding address:
93 Agiou Meletiou, 11251, Athens, Greece
Phone: +30-18678277, +30-15385423, +30-945466507
Fax: +30-18678277
E-mail: perivoliotis@teiath.gr
Abstract
This paper presents the case study of the Technological Educational Institution of Athens, Greece, which is part of the four-year European Module in the textile/fashion industry among four European schools of design funded by the Socrates program. The unique feature of this project and its case studies is that it provides the opportunity for European researchers, teachers, students and designers to explore textile production issues from their home base, enabling the effective sourcing of textile information by strengthening the interface between
education and research technology. The four schools have collaborated throughout the project, exchanging project briefs, learning source materials, and presenting key findings on their websites. The Greek case study focused on the local textile industry. We have ensured that our students not only understood the textile creative process, but also had a good understanding
of the requirements needed to design a successful textile product, by studying the development of the local industry and services, as well as the characteristics of a successful textile company in a competitive environment. The final European dissemination was a chance to give students the opportunity to transfer knowledge and experience on textile issues from more industrialised to newly industrialised countries.
Key words: textile industry, fashion industry, textile research, European textile industry, Greek textile industry, textile databases, European Module, CRAFT project.
Table 1. The data of the European Textile/Clothing Industry.
Parameter
Assortment
1999
2000
2001
2002
Total employment
(x 1,000)
Textiles
1,210
1,156
1,142
1,092
Clothing
1,194
1,106
1,038
980
Total Textiles/Clothing
2,404
2,262
2,180
2,072
Total number of firms including firms with less than 20 persons
(x 1,000)
Textiles
76
75
72
70
Clothing
125
120
113
107
Total Textiles/Clothing
201
195
185
177
FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe July / October 2004, Vol. 12, No. 3 (47) 9
a high percentage (more than 70%) of women workers in clothing. Substantial progress has been made in the preparation
of the enlargement of the EU to Central and Eastern European countries, and efforts are being made to strengthen the links between the EU and the south of the Mediterranean basin.
In the employment sector, an especially important issue for the EU is ethics. With the recognition of the textile/clothing industry
as a driving force of growth, ethical
values have an important place in the strategies of the major European firms. An increasing number of enterprises have been taking various initiatives to meet this social challenge. Heads of enterprises with a sense of social responsibility
are endeavouring to improve the conditions of their employees through innovative personnel policies, social actions
against exclusion, and the adoption of ‘ethical codes’ or ‘codes of practice’. This process of adoptions and implementations
constitutes the most tangible expression of the textile business world’s growing sense of social responsibility.
On 28 May 1993, the European Apparel
and Textile Organisation signed a charter of fundamental principles of global trade for textiles and apparel, the so-called ‘Textile/Apparel Magna Carta’, which has also been endorsed by non-EU employers’ associations in Switzerland, Canada, Japan, Mexico, Jamaica and the United States. It established the principles
of fair international textile trade based on fair practices, in line with the criteria of equity and reciprocity. It also included a commitment by the co-signatories
to respect human rights at work, examining the problems of child labour in this sector, which have worsened not only in Third World countries, but in some European countries also [3-13].
The purpose of this study is not to analyse ethics in the context of the textile/clothing sector, but to highlight the increasing EU integration that began several decades ago, and to state that this was an additional parameter through all the case studies.
n The European Module
Introduction
The project introduces business cultures
across the EU, and the intercultural teams that work in this environment. By researching and analysing aspects of the textile/fashion industry, it was anticipated that the participants would have greater insights into a given country’s
infrastructure, and that they would be sure of getting the most out of their work experience opportunities. Within the project’s activities, we had the opportunity
to research and examine the size, distribution, and economic importance of the textile and clothing industries in the countries of the EU, with particular emphasis on the role of the SMEs in the Greek case study (Figure 1).
The aims
The aims of the participants were as follows:
§ to develop an awareness of the process
and structure of the textile industry,
and of how companies operate;
§ to understand the new skills required by managers, designers and those with responsibilities in the textile industry;
§ to create new opportunities, visions, skills, technologies, design directions and media;
§ to extend knowledge of industrial textiles
and business situations;
§ to deepen understanding of the European
textile/fashion industry amongst students on exchange programmes;
§ to reach full- and part-time students who have been unable to benefit from exchange programmes.
The participants
The four schools that participated in the European module were:
§ the Kent Institute of Art and Design (KIAD), Rochester, UK (co-ordinator),
§ the Fachhochschule fur Technik und Wirtschaft (FHTW), Berlin, Germany,
§ the Nuova Academia De Belle Arti, (NABA), Milan, Italy, and
§ the Technological Educational Institution
(TEI), Athens, Greece.
The features of the countries involved, based on the distinctive characteristics of the resources and production of the textile/fashion industry, are as follows:
The UK’s strength in the textile/fashion industry lies in the areas of corporate communication and retail business. Design
expertise is utilised to a great degree in the design and marketing of products. It combines a design-led approach with technology and varying inputs of management,
business and cultural studies and language.
Germany’s strength in the textile business
comes from the country’s ability to create economically profitable and reliable solutions, and to create intensive quality brands. There are two parallel courses
in textile and clothing, both leading to the qualification of Diplom Ingenieur.
Italy’s special strength is its creative power,
its capacity to renew itself, to create new trends and durable styles, to reinforce
existing ones and to spread them world-wide through publications and presentations, creating an image of high quality. There is strong emphasis on the development of design prototypes related to industrial requirements.
Greece’s special strength is its location
between East and West, Asia and Europe, geographically and culturally,
Figure 1. The structure of the European module.
FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe July / October 2004, Vol. 12, No. 3 (47)
11FIBRES
its textile heritage, and its emphasis on traditional arts and craft textiles to a level that could even become an obstacle in a collaboration with more technologically developed countries. There is an equally strong emphasis on design, but in a more general sense, related to textiles. Textile production has not succeeded in taking advantage of these qualities, so we decided
to focus our case study on improving this situation. This became a positive stimulus
for the participants to examine the problem from a new point of view.
The major difference between the four partners was that while the other schools
are textile/fashion schools, TEI is a design school with emphasis on textiles. Though this seemed a deficiency at first sight, it turned out to be a source for diversity of information on the European textile industry [14,15]. The European module provides an element of study which can be common across all the courses,
and fill a gap in those areas where knowledge had previously been highly localised and individualised.
The actions
All partners had to research and investigate
one fashion/clothing company and produce a case study file. This file had to be constantly updated, to ensure that participants
are studying the current practice of textile industry procedures.
The file was organised under the following
headings and sections:
Why has this company been selected for analysis?
§ Will it provide up-to-date information on textile industrial processes for educational
purposes?
§ Is the company willing to co-operate and participate in this project?
§ Are there any confidential restrictions to publishing this information or using it for educational purposes?
Who and where is this company?
§ What type of company?
§ What is the size and organisational profile of the company?
§ Who are the people involved in the company?
§ Where is the company based?
§ What is the size of its operation?
§ Who does the company supply, sell, distribute to?
What does the company produce?
§ What is the market level and position of the company, designer, mass market,
niches?
§ Outline the type of products the company produces (textile qualities, household, clothing, fashion, textile products, etc),
§ How specialist and diverse is the product
range?
How does the company produce these products?
§ How are the products designed?
§ How are the products developed for the pre-production stage?
§ How are the products modified, altered
and changed ready for the production
stage of the process?
§ How is quality controlled within the production system?
§ What types of production systems are used?
Commentary
§ Any comments that need to be added for educational purposes.
§ Other activities of the company that need to be added.
§ A summary and recommendations on how the company would participate
in this project.
n The Greek Case Study
The Greek case study focused on the textile industry and textile co-operatives for tourist purposes, due to their special local problems and importance for the Greek economy [1,16]. The actions taken during the four years of the European module were as follows:
Two years was allotted to research into the textile industry. The participating students had to select information on a textile company, handcraft producer or co-operative, and analyse it using the questionnaires provided, desk research, telephone interviews, field research through companies and trade organisations,
and visits to companies and exhibitions.
They outlined what references and information had been sourced (e.g. government agencies, the Internet, trade associations, publications etc.), and how the data had been organised and filed (e.g. photocopies from libraries, additional
copies obtained from outside sources, from universities’ files for student use, etc). During the project the students worked
in pairs, so that they would maximise skills, provide support within the team, and have greater access to information for sharing. The methods by which this information was collated into a cohesive form for presentation were an important factor; they explored audio interviews, photographic images (either digital or conventional), and power-point presentations
[17-22].
One year was allotted for the completion
of the case study. The case study was completed through the study of four environments related to the textile industry:
§ the textile industrial environment, by researching and understanding the structure and operation of the local industry [17-22];
§ the market environment, by researching
and understanding the market, the competition and the customers [23-26];
§ the design environment, by researching
the infrastructure of design, the production process and the technology
[27];
§ the production environment, by researching
how the production is carried out, how management is structured, and how the accounting is managed [28].
The students also had to produce a research
file, based on an issue related to textile management.
One year was allotted to the preparation and completion of the final local and European dissemination, with a parallel application of the project in our local academic curricula during the fourth year, and an evaluation of the results of this application [29].
The European dissemination took place
in Milan, the local dissemination in Salonica, northern Greece, where the majority of the Greek textile industries are located. The European dissemination was actually an opportunity to view the total work from textile/fashion schools across Europe, which participated in parallel work through the Socrates programme.
The outcomes of the project were presented in mainland Europe as an ongoing initiative for understanding the textile industry. The total design research
work is accessible on the Internet for the common use of all the institutions
involve, at the following address:
www.madeineurope.org.uk
Work methodology
For all the Greek participants, the research
study took place in the Interior Design Faculty of the Technological Educational Institution (TEI) of Athens, at the Textile Design Workshop. The Research
Team was composed of the staff members of the TEI’s Textile Design Workshop and undergraduate students of the eighth semester. Students working on
FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe July / October 2004, Vol. 12, No. 3 (47) 11
the project were directed to the commercial
and industrial chambers, affiliations and organisations of the co-operatives as documentation centres for publications on the textile industry.
We have selected information from all the Greek textile chambers and handicraft
workshops of the Athens area, northern Greece, and provincial centres. Information was also provided by the Greek Organisation of Small and Medium
Sized Enterprises. Questionnaires were developed for the interviews.
The following actions and teaching and learning strategies were used in relation to the project:
§ the presentation of previous works via CD-ROMS, the Internet and hard copies,
§ the provision of questionnaires for the interviews,
§ the presentation of results and outcomes
of the questionnaires provided to the students for research,
§ an investigation and report on one company’s profile,
§ assessment strategies,
§ the creation of a database on Greek textile companies, and
§ presentation and evaluation of all the outcomes of the students’ work.
In a parallel way, the activities undertaken
by all the partners were as follows:
§ meetings to discuss the project and outline the main activities,
§ to produce a framework of tasks for each partner to undertake,
§ to source and find information related to each country’s industry ,
§ to produce information files on general
data regarding the textile/fashion industry of each country,
§ to produce a case study on one company
related to the textile/fashion industry of each country,
§ to create a method of reporting on the progress of each partner’s activities,
§ to produce two questionnaires for each partner to provide written feedback on progress on the tasks undertaken,
§ to produce two questionnaires for each partner to provide a written proposal for module implementations, and
§ to produce a web site [30] that should illustrate:
- the profile of all the partners,
- information on the participating institutes,
- the results from all the partners,
- selected information concerning all the partners.
Students participating in the Greek case study were required to collect information
on the production and marketing strategies of a textile company through personal research, interviews and research
of literature. All students had access and opportunities to visit textile collections, workshops, businesses and co-operatives, in order to achieve the maximum information input [31]. The results were presented to the other students
and included in our library, available
to all.
We adapted the following methodology:
§ the formation of a database on Greek textile industries, tourist textile producers
and textile co-operatives production,
management and marketing;
§ an analysis of the textile co-operatives and tourist textile companies;
§ interviews and questionnaires with all the above on production problems, sales,
quality control, management and marketing.
Additionally, all the Greek participants were asked to design innovative textiles or textile products, for household use or fashion, and to propose one for production
by the company or co-operative they had interviewed. We employed a data selection
method by asking all participants to photograph or sketch all forms, designs
and items that inspired them to visualise
and possibly create new textiles for the specific companies. The final textiles were selected from among hundreds of sketches created during the project. The participating students experimented with the creation of samples that covered a great range of adaptations, conducting parallel market research on their product’s
worthiness and commercial acceptability.
The adapted textile design methodology,
adapted by the participating students,
and proposed to the collaborating co-operatives for their textile production is presented in Figure 2.
n Results
The expected result of developing a European
Module in the European textile/fashion industry is to adapt the educational
process to the needs of the industry which have been identified as such. The outcomes indicate that strategic use of this educational process in textile businesses
would significantly improve competitiveness, even though as yet few companies have employed the possibility.
A trial of the teaching materials was anticipated with a small group of students,
in order to gain feedback on their effectiveness. It has also been anticipated to establish and use open- and distance-learning methods among the partners, but this is still in the initial stages of development.
The use of modern technology in the delivery of learning materials is still being explored and analysed for the most appropriate strategy.
Figure 2. The adapted textile design methodology, adapted by the participating students, and proposed to the collaborating co-operatives for their textile production.
12 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe July / October 2004, Vol. 12, No. 3 (47)
Overall, this project has given us opportunities
to explore joint curriculum strategies from four different perspectives.
The project has required intensive planning and management, to ensure that the work be completed on time and to the necessary standards. One of the major challenges has been to devise effective means of communication between the project partners, to ensure that the work was ongoing and being completed by all. This has given the partners valuable experience in issues that need to be addressed
to students during the application of the module.
The learning outcomes of the project were as follows:
§ a growing understanding that research methods need complex referencing to find relevant information,
§ a developing knowledge that textile/fashion development is multifaceted and operates on many different levels and across subject areas,
§ understanding that well-planned utilisation of time and control of the management system is crucial to the outcome,
§ the provision of learning materials concerning the size and geographic location of the textile industry in Europe,
analyses of product types and of trade movements,
§ the identification of sources of information
concerning the textile industry in Europe (literature, data bases and organisations),
§ analysis by country of business practices, the textile industry and the interactions of companies in the total supply chain,
§ the provision of case study material for the student to develop an understanding
of supply chain organisation and intercultural team building,
§ factors affecting the demand for textiles,
including the social and cultural background of their users as well as current trends,
§ understanding that successful research happens when efficient synergies are in place,
§ a developing knowledge that it is feasible to export textile projects and research works,
§ a developing knowledge that it is feasible
to create textile networks with themes of common interest that will share projects, innovation and co-operation
among partners,
§ a growing understanding that research
is successful when interaction, multidisciplinary knowledge, and technological transfer are successfully co-ordinated, and
§ a growing understanding that participants
from distant cultures and production
systems can create innovation which does not neglect the hallmark of their local cultures.
During the academic years 1998-2002 (winter & spring semesters) thirty-six students of the sixth and eight semesters of the School of Graphic and Applied Arts, TEI of Athens, participated in the project. The outcomes of their projects were delivered in CD-ROMs and hard copies.
Approximately 500 full- and part-time students in each year across the ICP network have benefited from the study of this module. Approximately thirty full time teaching staff in each year have benefited either directly by helping to compile information, or indirectly by being able to use it for teaching purposes.
Approximately 300 members of the Greek textile industry have required information on the data of the Greek case study.
A database was attached to the sites of all partners with information and links to the textile/fashion industry, textile/fashion design improvements, and the design possibilities that could emerge from it. This database remains a valuable tool for research, especially for educators and students from the countries involved. The development of the web sites was seen as both an experimental first step to a future establishment of distance-learning delivery,
and as a means of attracting greater industrial involvement in the educational process. It opened opportunities and possibilities for people in industry who lack a wider knowledge of the European scene, while at the same time assisting them in bringing more up-to-date industrial
knowledge and experience to bear on staff and students in the University environment.
Editorial notes
1. Part of the research work was presented at the Designing Designers 2002 conference,
Milan, and at the Istanbul 2002 design conference.
2. The Greek case study of the European Module was initiated by, and based on, TEI’s research work for the CRAFT European
project, as presented in ‘Fibres and Textiles of Eastern Europe’ vol. No 3(38)/2002, p. 8-13, ‘Textile Production within a co-operative applied to rural European women’ [1].
References
1. Perivoliotis, M. C., ‘Textile Production within a co-operative applied to rural European women’, Fibres and Textiles of Eastern Europe, 2002, Vol. 10, No 3 (38), pp. 8-13.
2. http://europa.eu/comm/enterprise/textile/statistic.htm
3. Textile and clothing industry in the EU: A survey
4. http://www.euratex.org/
5. http://www.asbei.co.uk/
6. http://www.itaonline.org/
7. http://www.fgi.org/
8. http://www.aedt.org/
9. http://www.apparelsearch.com.associations.htm
10. http://www.trendselection.it/
11. http://www.apparel.com.gt/
12. http://www.ilo.org/public/english/dialogue/sector/papers/bzethics/index.htm
13. Encyclopaedia of British History, ‘Textile Industry’, UK.
14. European Module in Fashion Industry, ‘Minutes of the Meetings’, 1999/2000, UK.
15. European Module in Fashion Industry, Project Management Documents, 1997-2000, UK.
16. Perivoliotis, M. C., ‘Craft’, a Leonardo Da Vinci European Program, TEI of Athens, 1998, Greece.
17. Hellenic Chamber of Industry, Data on Hellenic textile manufactures, 1989, 1998, Greece.
18. Hellenic Institute of Garments, Export-Import Data, 1998, 2000, Greece.
19. Hellenic Institute of Industrial Research, ‘Greek textile and clothing manufacture companies’, 1998, 2000, Greece.
20. Hellenic National Statistics Services, ‘Greek textile production data in the post-war period’, 1998, Greece.
21. Hellenic Organisation of Small and Medium
Enterprises, Data on co-operatives, 1998/2000, Greece.
22. Hellenic Organisation of Small and Medium
Enterprises, ‘The Greek Co-operatives’
File’, Ministry of Development, 1996/1999, Greece.
23. Druker P., ‘Management: Tasks, Responsibilities,
Practices’, Harper Row, New York, 1974.
24. Phillipoulis A., ‘Entrepreneurship’, TEI of Athens, 1996, Greece.
25. Rodgers P., Clarkson P.J., An investigation
and review of the knowledge needs of Designers in SMEs, 1998, Design Journal, No 3, pp. 16-29.
26. Svengren L., Industrial design as a strategic
resource, Design Journal, 1997, No 1, pp. 3-11.
27. King B., Spring M., The Design Process in its National/Regional Context, Design Journal, 2001, No. 3, pp. 4-18.
28. Kalviainen, M., ‘The professionally accepted
Good Product’, Design Journal, 1998, No 3, pp. 30-43.
29. Perivoliotis, M. C., ‘Module in European fashion’, TEI of Athens, 2000, Greece.
30. Frangopoulos, S., ‘Informatics’, TEI of Athens, 1997, Greece.
31. Textile Co-operatives: Within the research activities, ten textile co-operatives have participated which have also collaborated with the research team for the Leonardo Da Vinci Program CRAFT.
Received 05.04.2004 Reviewed 13.05.2004